Tips for Selling Vintage Clothing

By Pauline Weston Thomas for Fashion-Era.com

• Points for Would-Be Sellers and Buyers of Vintage
• Value of Labels
• A Condition Report Point
• Dating Clothes and Estimating Dates
• Some Thoughts on Zippers - Zippers History
• Press Stud Side Fastening in 1930's Dress

Tips for Buying and Selling Vintages

These are some guidelines aimed in particular at new sellers of vintage who may be considering selling clothing or dresses via the internet but have no idea what points to consider other than they want to sell items.   Buyers may also find them useful as guidelines on buying and what features to look for in sale details.

1. Give a precise and accurate written description of the condition of the item.  State whether it is mint, near mint, excellent, very good, good, fair, poor, well worn, tattered, soiled, damaged, ripped, moth eaten.  Whether or not you need to use the latter derogatory words will depend on your mode of operation and standard of purchases. 

With the latter terms consider using the word 'cutter', which is a useful term to doll makers, dressmakers and quilt makers who seek antique fabrics for reproducing vintage looking reproduction or theatrical goods.

• Mint means mint.  It means rare, flawless and as perfect and pristine as it was originally, to the point that it may never have been even worn.   Garment tags may still be attached.
• Near Mint shows the lightest of wear and a garment or dress that is in complete condition in all aspects.  Wedding suits and special occasion ball, red carpet and cocktail gowns for example are often near mint.
• Excellent condition means totally sound in condition and appearance, but any wear is a result of having been worn now and then, but the item has been well looked after and stored to still keep good looks.  The construction of the garment is sound with no buttons missing or unavailable for matching.
• Very good condition means wearable with some flaws. Flaws such as stains or minor structural flaws have made an appearance.  However, overall the garment has redeeming factors such as scarcity or a rare print making it desirable. The position of the soiling or staining is also important.  Since the marking may be permanent this should be reflected in the selling price.
• Good means wearable, but the dress is no longer in pristine condition and if there are repairs to be made it could never achieve excellent condition.   Remember vintage garments have been around a long time, so will have deteriorated with the years and with storage conditions.  These clothes have been worn, but the fact they still exist means they were favorite items or stylish treasured garments in their day.

Tips for Vintage Clothing

Anything beyond these terms means the garment gets less and less desirable.  Whilst I have suggested terms such as fair and poor above, it is really better to try to trade in items in very good condition or better. 

You will have fewer personal headaches than if you deal with them. 

A wide range of terms is required if you sell a broad range of textile goods sourced as 'lots' from estate sales.  Once experienced, with sound finance behind you, you may prefer to buy single top-condition items from an auction house and trade more exclusive items that actually give you more pleasure to sell and to buy.

Give your general opinion of the quality of the garment.  As buyers get to know you they will recognize fact from fiction.  Sellers like the ones recommended here actually draw attention to flaws so the buyer knows exactly what to expect.  A buyer expects to see pictures of flaws, minor holes, and tiny seam splits where appropriate, for any of the descriptions above.

All flaws should be disclosed. 

Do not mislead as you will do yourself long term customer relations damage.  You want buyers to come back again and again because you provide a good service and because you are honest and do this not only to make money, but because it gives you satisfaction of the love of a job well done. 

You want to develop a win win situation for you and your customer.  Integrity on your part will enable you to sleep well at night.

If you cannot be descriptive enough, if it is not in good state, write "sold AS IS" which puts the onus on the purchaser to read that phrase and derive meaning from it.  You can invite them to email you for more information if you don't want to jeopardize the sale, or put people off considering the item when you write AS IS. 

Don't think a torn garment is worthless and has no monetary value as many collectors buy up older damaged garments specifically for quilting, dressing old or antique dolls in authentic fabrics as well as using pieces of material in re-enactment costumes.  But it's worth may be limited.  Describe it as Cutter.

Repro and retro goods are sometimes described as BN or Brand New.

2.  State the dimensions of an accessory or state garment measurements, measured by you with a tape measure in many places.  You must state the bust, waist and hip measurements always.  Have ready other measurements for email queries or special extra details or even make it a policy to list fuller measurements.

A good pattern drafting book can highlight typical areas to measure.  Apart from the obvious measurements of bust, waist, hips, other areas like back waist, cross chest, cross back, and bodice length are important too.  Include garment length, plus widths and circumference of hemline sweeps on skirts and jacket tops, as well as any original statistics stated on the garment.  

Sizing varies from era to era and you need to be aware which eras have a smaller more nipped in fit.  Laundering may have increased or decreased the original sizing.  (See cleaning vintage tips in another section)

3.  State the era - date it - what date do you give it?  Aim for accuracy with 5 or less years either side of the original date.  Get familiar with fashion and costume history books.  Use the sitemaps and search facilities of websites like www.fashion-era.com and www.costumes.org , that give reliable logically presented information.  There is no one way to date vintage clothing, but over time and with experience you will develop a feel for dating items.  You must read up on fashion history and get a reasonable selection of costume books that cover your sales eras.

If you are searching for initial clues to the date of the silhouette, my new section here with clear outline drawings of the era 1900-1940 may help you.  Check back frequently as I plan to add more similar styled line drawing images.  Likewise there are sections on this site on cloaks, capelets, mantelets, bustles, crinolines, redingotes and hats etc.

The coats and capes section on site actually developed after I dated some vintage garments for an eBay vintage shop seller and I realized how confusing it was to find coordinated information in one place.

If you have a dated photograph of the garment's first wearing it may also be useful.  But don't rely on being told the date.  You need to develop these skills yourself.  

You can learn how to date the clothes in photos by starting at my webpage section here.  It is all about comparison.  With time, knowledge builds and you cannot beat sketching out the images and highlighting skirts, necklines and sleeve silhouettes year by year.  I might add though, that dating lace is a whole field in itself.

4.  Name the brand or designer label name.  Name the designer or company if known to you and always show the label, including any care labels in the photographs which may exist with garments post 1950s.

Designer Labeled Vintage: Some labels, especially in beautifully made clothes, may be well hidden underneath layers of linings up side seams.  If the original garment tags are still attached, state that they are with the garment.

Sewn in Care Labels introduced into the UK by the HLCC (Home laundering Consultative Council) and as we know them today, are post c1975.  Standardization in the UK was introduced in the mid 1980s.  This link will give you access to  typical care symbols for UK, USA and Japanese systems.  But good brands often included a swing booklet on looking after a garment long before this date and would have advised on hand washing, bleaching, machine washing or dry cleaning.

5.  Give a full description of stains and smells, mildew, rust stains or odour of dust, smoke, perspiration/body odour or other smell.  Photographs help here. 

It may put some people off, but some people are able to deal with stain removal and stains and some smells like dust come out of certain fabrics better than others.  

Build and keep your reputation.  Give the facts and let the buyer decide if they can deal with the problem - it is after all vintage and there are often imperfections.  If you are more experienced try to clean up some problems using the hints and tips on the cleaning vintage page.

6. Tell prospective purchasers if the item has been cleaned or not, either by hand washing or dry cleaning.   Old and very precious antique items are best left to the conservationist professionals.   The aged look may even be part of the attraction.

If you are in doubt about the success of any cleaning you might do, don't clean it as the buyer may prefer to have it specialist cleaned.   However selling disgusting, filthy articles is not generally good for business and the best answer is to try to avoid purchasing unpleasant goods in the beginning.

7.  Give clear fabric composition, type and trimmings descriptions where known.  Here try to familiarise yourself with fabric terms from past and present eras.  Learn the meaning of terms like dupion silk, mousseline de soie, damask, jacquard, sea island, cheesecloth, crape, crepe de chine, grosgrain, batiste, organdie, organza, poult de soie, voile, voided velvet or devore, velveteen, chiffon, dimity print, brocade, waffle, pique, georgette and so many more and find out the differences.  Read more about Tweeds here on the fashion-era website.

Learn also about trimming terms like passementerie, soutache braid, trapunto quilting, picot edging, faggotting, bias trim and rouleau work, Vandyke edging, guipure lace, Irish crochet, Battenburg lace, Chantilly lace, Italian quilting, appliqué, shadow work, tatting trim, filet, openwork and drawn threadwork, cutwork, macrame fringe and whitework.  You will find links to just about every craft skill link listed at www.costumes.org

Many of these typical terms can be found in a good basic sewing book like Vogue Sewing, which is hard to beat for understanding various descriptions of terms used in sewing clothing.  If you are new to all of this it will take time, but there is no substitute for diligent research, asking knowledgeable individuals at forums and looking at clothes in museums.

8.  Always give a colour description which is attractive sounding.  Variations of blue for example sound more interesting and are possibly more accurate when described as hyacinth, iris, saxe blue, bluebell, sky, powder, royal, periwinkle, forget-me-not, Wedgwood, peacock, cornflower, sapphire, aquamarine, teal etc.  Avoid using unattractive descriptions of colours such as mouse, mole or clay mud.  In preference use cinnamon, taupe, cafe, red earth which have a more pleasant visual connection.

9.  Give prospective clients clear shipping details - let them know how soon after purchase and clearance of payment you intend to send their item to them.  Tell them how well you intend to pack it and if it will be insured, sent first or second class delivery.  Tell them if uninsured if they can arrange to pay extra to have insured shipping. 

Give them information on any extra or basic costs to shipping and think about adding phrases that imply cost will be greater or lesser if special delivery or inside/outside the USA, UK or Antipodes for example, dependant on which side of the pond you are. Consider where in the world you are prepared or not prepared to send this item.

My advice is that before you attempt to sell something on a site such as eBay you first buy several products such as old fashion magazines or other small goods such as hats, scarves or bags within a specific budget to understand the stages involved. 

Buying a few items first, gives you the stage experience that a purchaser might have.  Observe how the transaction is dealt with, and when/how and what condition the item is received in and your sense of pleasure or displeasure.

10. Describe the garment and the garment construction details - tell them if it is couture, mass produced or custom-made.  The inside will reveal a great deal of information about construction methods such as pre and post-development of serging. 

Likewise, fabrics and methods used in the construction tell much about the quality of a garment.  Careful use of net, horsehair, padding, stay tape, and stay pieces, but beneath the top layers, all indicate quality construction which takes more time to do.  This makes the article more costly when first made.

Vintage Garment Descriptions

Describe carefully garment styling lines such as princess seaming, tucking, godets, insertions or peplums.  Sleeves may be set in, leg o'mutton, gigot, dolman, raglan, batwing, cap, drop, blouson, shirt, bracelet, angel, puff, straight, fitted or kimono sleeves.  Collars or necklines such as Bertha, peter pan, Eton, shirt, granddad, cowl, fichu, V-neck, bateau, sailor, cowl, crew, polo, stand, roll, or topstitched are often featured.

Describing garments depends on the item, but when you have a mental block or are new to descriptive sales narrative, a good idea is to simply logically work down the garment describing the neckline, then the bodice, yoke, waist appearance, and closure. 

Sleeves may have cuffs or ornamentation.  Describe the skirt and the hemline sweep or train.  Mention any interesting back views. Any decoration such as beading or passementerie can then be highlighted or reinforced again as you sum up.

Give them a garment condition report which can be as brief or as long as you like.  Tell them if there is button loss or loose stitching such as hems coming down, fading, or color loss, or pinholes.  Photograph special areas of construction or any flaws that might give more guidance to the buyer.

Vintage Cloth Condition Report Points

When describing items do not imply at any time with quality made PROFESSIONAL seamstress suits, that they are vaguely connected to homemade items that might have an unprofessional finish.

If you know the item was homemade, but the quality and finish is that of a superior craftsperson and you admire the finish greatly, then state custom-made. 

But if the item is very obviously home made, be realistic and state that's what it is.  No one will rate you if you tell porkies!

Similarly, if you are buying, learn to read between the lines on such item descriptions.  One important point is to make sure that the item is very carefully measured.   Women who have clothes made often have figure flaws such as thick or narrow waist, slim or fat top upper arms, flat or fuller bust.

11.  Let them see the zipper and describe it.  Photograph the zipper.  Photograph major fastening features such as bakelite buttons.  Read about zippers below and how many people use this as guidance when dating.

12.  Tell them your methods of acceptable payment such as using ClickBank or PayPal or Visa, but don't labour everyone who peruses the sale with too much info on this at the selling stage, leave the bulk of the payment information for the final purchaser or anyone who cares to email you about their preferred method of payment.

13.  If you have accumulated too many of a particular item and only perhaps 3 out of 6 items are desirable items think about selling lots.

If you have for example a selection of 20's hats, 50's skirts, 60's pinafore dresses, or 70's caftans they may do well as a 'lot' of one type.  At least one third of the items should be very desirable so that people get something out of bidding on a lot.  No buyer wants 6 reject caftans, but they might like 2 highly attractive items with a special cache perhaps in a Pucci print fabric or with interesting beading.

You can also group lots as sizes making a lot of five or six items all size 32 bust, or all size large items.  Group items together as day dresses, evening dresses, trousers, shirts, coats, stoles, scarves etc.

16.  Let your buyers see your love of vintage and your reputable personality with integrity shine through your descriptions and quality sales.  Success and profit will become yours.

This website gives clear information on their approach to shipping, returns, sizing etc. They sell interesting vintage items across the clothing range as well as accessories such as the 1950's beaded gloves shown right.

Some Thoughts on Zippers  Zip History

Schiaparelli liked new things as well as new ideas.  In 1933 she promoted the fastener we call the zip or zipper. The metal zip had been invented in the Victorian era as far back as 1891 by W Litcomb Judson of Chicago USA. 

He patented a clasp locker system of fastening constructed from a series of hooks and eyes with a clasp lock for closing.  By 1893 the zipper was in production.  But it was clumsy as it needed to be locked tooth by tooth.  It was slow to catch on until refinements were gradually introduced.

In 1913 a Swede developed Judson’s ideas in the USA, making a hookless fastener with interlocking teeth.  By 1917 it was somewhat timidly used for tobacco pouches and shoes.  B. G. Worth of Goodrich and Co., gave those shoe zips the name zipper and it stuck.  In 1917 it was used for clothing when the U.S. Navy applied it to windcheater jackets.

Schiaparelli's use of the new plastic-colored zip in fashion clothes was both decorative, functional and highly novel.   Her 1930s designs were the first to use it as a major feature of fashion garments.

Even so most garments were still designed with button fastenings until the 50s when improvements in zip manufacture were acknowledged. They soon became universally used and are now a very reliable form of fastening.

Press Stud Side Fastening in 1930's Dress

Many dress patterns sold to the public still did not include instructions for zippers.  Many considered it 'unreliable' as it was prone to failure. More traditional closures were often thought more reliable and easier to insert. This means that many 1930's dresses are finished with press studs or buttons as shown here.

Zippers were usually put in the side seams of dresses, skirts and trousers until the 50s.  Later they were used in the centre back of dresses, skirts and the centre front of trousers. 

Whilst there is no official reason to this it is obvious to anyone who is capable of constructing garments that it is much easier to apply a zip to the centre back piece of a garment in the flat stage, rather than to the side and curved hip seam of an almost completed closed garment.  Zips were often unreliable in the early days and so if a zip split open in a side seam underarm insertion it would provide the wearer with greater modesty when covered with the arm than a gaping back of a garment might.

Garment shape change may also be responsible for this.  Pre 1960 garments were very fitted.  They often had a waist seam and so bodices were almost totally completed and then applied in the round to the full or straight skirt of a dress.  Applying the zip to the side may also have been a leftover technique from the times when zips were inserted by hand.

In my opinion it is easier to invisibly hand insert a zip into a side seam using a hand couture sewing method than to machine stitch a zip into a curved side seam.  The hand sewing allows for manipulation of the fabric in a way that the machine will not. 

Improvements in mass production during the Utility Era also meant that production methods were speeded up and it is certainly more speedy to apply a zip to the centre back of a garment at the flat stage.

In vintage terms many enthusiasts believe that a metal zipper in a garment is a good rule of thumb that along with other factors indicate a garment is probably pre 1960.  

I say be wary, as whilst the presence of a metal zip may be an indication of age it is not reason enough to believe an item is vintage.  Metal zips can be replaced and there are unscrupulous people who will deliberately fake items using metal zippers.  Metal zips can still be bought today particularly for use with work or jeans wear and many dressmakers continue to use them.

Plastic zippers were available in the 1930s but made with individual teeth molded onto them in the exact same way as metal zippers were constructed.  Concealed zippers which are very fine were introduced in 1958.  In 1961 I recall my sister having a beautifully made bought dress from a local boutique in the latest new fabric "Crimplene".  It was the height of luxury, with a concealed zipper of such neat insertion it fascinated the whole family. 

The dress cost her 7 guineas, about $30 at that time.

Some people who dressmake regularly recycle zips from garments no longer worn and even buy jumble or boot sale thrift garments just to remove zips and buttons.  Likewise a vintage garment may have had its metal zip replaced at some time with a nylon coil (self healing) zip.

In 1963 EFLON woven zippers appeared and this is where some people become confused with the later finer knitted tape zips, but with continuous coil features of one single shaped monofilament.  Plastic coil zippers as we know them were first introduced in 1971.  The plastic coil is woven as part of the fabric of the tape with single loops each making one tooth.  Thermoplastic resins, specific versions of the plastics Nylon and Polyester are both used today in zip-making.

Zips are not the only things to be wary of.

• Showing off a Garment to Advantage
• Should You Buy a Mannequin
• Keep Photographs Clear of Clutter

The Importance of Showing off a Garment to Advantage

Should You Buy a Mannequin?

Generally garments look much better when photographed on either a mannequin or a dress-form.

Couture Model dress-form

This photograph right is a couture model dress-form and is the model which Linda Ames frequently uses to display many of their fine couture pieces. The slender form makes it ideal for antique and vintage clothing which pre-1960 will have smaller waists and smaller measurements in general.

I recall in the 1980s there was a mannequin called Laid Back Larry and he slouched in an ever so casual way and had huge iron pumped 1980's shoulders. 

Likewise many 80's mannequins had head features modelled on the Princess of Wales, Diana.  15 years before that many had head features modelled on Princess Anne. Some of the older models at the V & A, London costume section in the 1980s had Princess Anne's face. 

Now in the UK many mannequins look like Victoria or David Beckham, or the latest celebrity such as Gwen Stefani.  More recently whilst checking out vintage sites, I noticed that many model heads used actually looked as if they had been modelled on Vivien Leigh.

Detachable limbs that unscrew on a model make it easier to dress and undress.  Any screw fitting or limb stiffness can usually be sorted out with a spray like WD40, but not of course near textiles!  Be lavish with kitchen roll when applying the spray to just a joint and for cleaning up excess spray.  If you have very expensive vintage garments think twice before using such a product.  It may be preferable to spray kitchen paper instead and wipe the lubricant precisely just on the stiff fitting.

Just don't frighten the life out of your neighbours as I once did when I stacked one in a box in my garage and then one day left the garage door open and they wondered who the naked lady, legs up in the air in a TV box was!  Although second hand prices of ex-shop model mannequins must vary a great deal worldwide, I paid £20 for a second hand one from a small ad in the local free Advertiser newspaper about 8 years ago.

Dress forms can be almost as effective as mannequins, but try to put a nice filler in the neck either of contrast fabric or toning stockinet or make a little bib filler.  There are also briefer half girl models on the market and these are a good investment.

If you have no mannequin or dress form do you know someone the garment might fit -  could you pad them out a little or hold the back of the garment in with clothes pegs so that no one will see poor fit in the photo.  As a last resort hang the garment from a door frame and photograph it against a plain door, but hanging freely.

The best way to show for example skirt or sleeve shape is to use a long thread and secure it from another point or get someone to hold the other end of the thread whilst you take photos.  It will be easy to crop the person's hand out of the picture if the elevated thread is a distance away from the garment.   Make sure you use a good length of sewing thread or invisible thread lifting the garment sleeves or skirt up in a delicate manner as often seen in window displays.

Dress forms are often sold by vintage clothes sellers too.  Modern forms can be obtained from many stockists such as the USA Greenberg-hammer web site or MacCulloch and Wallis of Dering Street London.

Using Photographs for Selling Vintage Clothing

When you photograph items for placement on internet auction sites try to use a special daylight bulb to gain colour accuracy.  Household bulbs cast a yellowish light, fluorescent light a green cast and halogen lights a blue cast.

If you have the expertise and your photograph colour looks a little off compared to the actual garment or perhaps too dark, try to lift or enhance the colour, or lighten it using software features.  Try correcting colour backgrounds or flood filling them with colour using the magic wand selection tool.  I can highly recommend the software Paint Shop Pro 7 or higher from JASC to help you manipulate pictures in this way.  This is the software I use for all my pictures here.

Keep Photographs Clear of Clutter

Whatever you do, don't include cornflake packets and the like in the photograph as I have sometimes seen on numerous eBay sales.

Here is an example of an 'old' saved leather handbag I have, now fitting into the vintage category.  The handbag was originally from the well known exclusive London shop Mappin and Webb.  The handbag shows a small amount of wear on the edges, but otherwise is in very good condition and is still useable and is suitable for sale.  It has a lovely clean suede interior and a zipped pocket.  Best of all it is in a currently fashionable textured skin, classic in style and is brown, making it suitable for the fifties look now.

These thumbnails enlarge and the last one shows the label clearly. There is no extra clutter in the pictures to distract the viewer.

You don't have to be an expert photographer to take clear uncluttered photographs.  A corner of your desk will do as I have used here, but I made sure nothing else in the picture was distracting the viewer's attention.   Focus on the object you intend to sell and if there is clutter try to crop that away or colour a new background using graphics software with perhaps black or off white to isolate the image.

Notice too how each image has a border of white that is not proportionate size wise in all these pictures here. The first two I'd probably pass, but the last image should be adjusted when it's adjacent to another. 

Flat Displays

Finally nothing makes a full length garment look duller than laying it flat on a table or bed when no flowing drape is possible.  However one exception to the rule is beaded knitwear, which can sometimes display much better if laid flat to show the whole pattern.

On the next page I look at Couture Vintage from vintagetextile.com and you will see there how beautifully displayed the models are.

(Page Date 18 Feb 2005)

Packing goods well is very important.  When the buyer opens an item they do not expect to get a garment so creased that they are instantly disappointed.  However there will be some wrinkles, especially along the fold lines, for after all it is a vintage item and creasing is time dependant.  An item that has been packed up for 3 days in transit in the post will likely take as long for any creases to drop out. 

Do give the garment a chance to drop out as most creases are time dependant damage due to the cross links bending within fibres and forming new positions.  If there is still a lot of creasing place the item in a steamy shower or bathroom or use a steamer or kettle minus the lid in the same room.  The fibre cross links are weakened by the steam and reform in new positions, hopefully their original flat position.

Selling Vintage Clothes - Shipping

I'll assume your item is clean and in good condition before you even think about packing it.

Cleaning was discussed on the previous page, but one thing that won't hurt it would be to check it for dust, fluff and lint bits, especially if you have cleaned it, but left it hanging for a while.  With wool or velvet garments in particular you can gently and lightly vacuum the item with the special upholstery brush provided with your cleaner. 

You can also cover the nozzle end with some pantyhose leg and use that if you have no special attachments.  Finally either use a special lint remover or wrap scotch or sellotape around your hand generously and carefully run the tape down the garment to drag off stubborn fluff. 

If you use the hand method be generous with the tape and throw away and renew it to get efficiency and a clean lint free surface.

Do not make the mistake of ironing any item just before packing.  Press the item the night before or about 8 hours before packing it. 

The chances are if you press just before packing you will add an element of moisture when you do the pressing, particularly to thicker fabrics that wick moisture.  This moisture combined with residual warmth in the garment will actually cause some wrinkles, if you immediately fold the item up into a small space. 

At that point the creases become heat set as the cross links in the fibres bend and reform into new, but now crooked positions.  Leave the item to air thoroughly from all angles by hanging it up from a door frame with air surrounding it. 

Special Treatment for Pressing Velvets Before Shipping

Velvet likes a steamy atmosphere best of all and should never be pressed unless you have a purpose-designed velvet needle board or a piece of plush velvet kept solely for the purpose of pressing other velvets.  A needle board prevents the pile of velvet or velveteen from being crushed. 

They can be bought from good haberdashers and usually cost at least £25.  I've always preferred those on a soft back that can also be rolled up and used in awkward parts of the garment.

The cheaper alternative is to keep a piece of velvet fabric, place it on your ironing board and press the garment pile into the velvet so that the two layers press pile into pile. 

A jacket will be much harder to press this way than a dress with a loose lining.  If in doubt, take the garment to be professionally steamed at a cleaners or first try hanging it in a steamy shower room.  If you make a mess of pressing velvet and flatten the pile you have usually caused shine and pile damage that is permanent.  

Under rather than over-press velvet and try also the freely steaming kettle minus lid method.

Devoré velvet or burnout style used to be called broderie chimique andis best pressed with the pile sinking into that special pressing velvet cloth described above.   Needle boards can damage the sheer elements of devoré fabric and snag and create pin holes. 

Always try out pressing techniques on inexpensive items that you have no love for.   Velvet boards can be obtained at internet haberdashery supplies stores. 

Note - sometimes this is also called voided velvet.

Tyvek Envelopes and Boxes for Shipping

Many sellers ship goods in waterproof Tyvek envelopes and place these in a box.  This is important because if the box gets wet ink can run on a box and damage goods if they are loose inside.   For the same reason any handmade labels should also be placed in a sealed plastic bag or suitable envelope and kept separate from the garment. 

All sorts of boxes can be used, but you can use special postal boxes, special garment boxes, hatboxes and lower down the market even unused pizza boxes.  The main difference in boxes will be more important if the item is to be stored long term in a box or is just being used to transport the item to its destination.

The more professional and upmarket you see your service the more attention you should pay to the packaging.  Designer evening gowns from earlier eras may have an original box which may be 4ft or so in length.  Otherwise obtain boxes called archival storage boxes from a supplier such as The Container Store who produce a variety of boxes up to 40 inches long and also sell acid free tissue paper. 

You might also investigate Heritagegown.com who provide a service suitable for bridal gown preservation and also sell buffered and unbuffered tissue paper.

The price of specialist boxes might seem to eat into your profit, but anyone who has spent thousands of pounds or dollars expects at the very least the original designer label box or a brand new box.

If you feel a couple of pounds or dollars on a gorgeous piece of ribbon and perhaps an artificial flower will add to the flourish and style of your wrapped up vintage item go ahead and do that.

It's a good idea to ask the buyer if they are willing to pay more for deluxe packaging, and if they are what you must offer them is a deluxe packaging service.  That means new quality acid free tissue paper worked in every fold as you fold the garment, a ribbon, a tyvek envelope, bubble wrap or shredded paper or polystyrene bits to fill in air gaps and stop the item floating about, then a quality box. 

Corrugated shipping boxes may suit the garment price range you work in better than archival boxes as long as they are for transporting the item rather than storing it.  An item that is fairly snug in the final box won't flop about and over crease.

If you do your best to pack items well, they will arrive in reasonable condition and buyers will be pleased and spread good words about you.  The main thing here is that you think about packing it and do your best to make the package do a good job. 

A browse at the Heritage Gown Site will give you information and ideas about storage and preserving your precious items long term to a museum standard.  Other suppliers do of course exist, but this will get you started.

It really would be impossible for any garment to arrive totally crease-free unless it were door to door courier delivered on a hanger in a garment bag.  Sometimes telling the buyer that creases will happen during transit will reassure them.  Using a flyer with some hints and tips on caring for the item when it's unwrapped will be sufficient to set their mind at rest.

The unexpected will floor them so make an effort to restore their confidence before they make that unnecessary phone call that wastes their time and yours. The last thing you want is for a buyer to have a sense of disappointment when they open up the box.  

Try to think of the last time you had a tooth extraction or head injury.  You felt reassured didn't you that you were given a detailed leaflet with symptoms to look out for and what might happen and how to deal with it, but also what was normal to expect. 

Public Relations Sales Information/Personal Touches with the Shipped Item.

Consider adding little touches like a "thank you for buying vintage from me" card, but just make sure it isn't going to damage that precious item by bleeding if it gets wet. 

Or you could add a leaflet about the costume history of the era they have chosen their item from, or even a list of websites or booklist to help them research the period or the designer or brand. 

Try imagining making the recipient feel as if they received a wonderful much wanted gift from you, rather than a purchase. Make them want to contact you for repeat business or to thank you.

This gives you a personal bonus and a little fillip of a job well done.