Custom Search

Queen Anne - 1702-1714

Queen Anne 1702-1714
by Dion Clayton Calthrop

By Pauline Weston Thomas for Fashion-Era.com

Queen Anne 1702-1714
English Costume History by Dion Clayton Calthrop

.

Man - Red Frock Coat - 1702-1714Woman in English Costume - Anne - 1702-1714This costume history information consists of Pages 395-405 of the chapter on the first decade of the early C18th dress in the 12 YEAR REIGN era of Queen Anne 1702-1714 and taken from English Costume by Dion Clayton Calthrop.

The 36 page section consists of a text copy of the book ENGLISH COSTUME PAINTED & DESCRIBED BY DION CLAYTON CALTHROP.  Visuals, drawings and painted fashion plates in the book have a charm of their own and are shown amid the text. The book covers both male and female dress history of over 700 years spanning the era 1066-1830.
This page is about dress in the reign of Anne 1702-1714.

For the Introduction to this book see this introduction written by Dion Clayton Calthrop.  I have adjusted the images so they can be used for colouring worksheets where pupils add some costume/society facts.
My comments are in italics.

QUEEN ANNE

Reigned twelve years: 1702-1714.
Born 1665. Married, 1683, Prince George of Denmark.

THE MEN AND WOMENElegant Gentleman Early C18th

When I turn to the opening of the eighteenth century, and leave Dutch William and his Hollands and his pipe and his bulb-gardens behind, it seems to me that there is a great noise, a tumultuous chattering. We seem to burst upon a date of talkers, of coffee-houses, of snuff and scandal. All this was going on before, I say to myself - people were wearing powdered wigs, and were taking snuff, and were talking scandal, but it did not appeal so forcibly.

Sedan Chairs

We arrive at Sedan-chairs and hoops too big for them; we arrive at red-heeled shoes. Though both chairs and red heels belong to the previous reign, still, we arrive at them now - they are very much  in the picture. We seem to see a profusion, a confused mass of bobbins and bone lace, mourning hatbands, silk garters, amber canes correctly conducted, country men in red coats, coxcombs, brass and looking-glass snuff-boxes.

Gentlemen walk past our mental vision with seals curiously fancied and exquisitely well cut. Ladies are sighing at the toss of a wig or the tap on a snuff-box, falling sick for a pair of striped garters or a pair of fringed gloves. Gentlemen are sitting baldheaded in elegant dressing-gowns, while their wigs are being taken out of roulettes.

Peruquierthe Running Footman

The peruquier removes the neat, warm clay tube, gives a last pat to the fine pipes of the hair, and then gently places the wig on the waiting gentlemen. If you can look through the walls of London houses you will next see regiments of gentlemen, their faces pressed into glass cones, while the peruquier tosses powder over their newly-put-on periwigs. The bow at the end of the long pigtail on the Ramillies wig is tied - that is over.

A Running Footman

Running footmen, looking rather like Indians from the outsides of tobacco shops, speed past. They are dressed in close tunics with a fringed edge, which flicks them just above the knee. Their legs are tied up in leather guards, their feet are strongly shod, their wigs are in small bobs. On their heads are little round caps, with a feather stuck in them. In one hand they carry a long stick about 5 feet high, in the top knob of which they carry some food or a message. A message to whom?

The running footman knocks on a certain door, and delivers to the pretty maid a note for her ladyship from a handsome, well-shaped youth who frequents the coffee-houses about Charing Cross. There is no answer to the note: her ladyship is too disturbed with household affairs. Her Welsh maid has left her under suspicious circumstances, and has carried off some articles.

The lady is even now writing to Mr. Bickerstaff of the Tatler to implore his aid.

This is the list of the things she has missed - at least, as much of the list as my mind remembers as it travels back over the years:

  • A thick wadded Calico Wrapper.Women's Costume 1700.
  • A Musk-coloured Velvet Mantle lined with Squirrels' Skins.
  • Eight night shifts, four pairs of stockings curiously darned.
  • Six pairs of laced Shoes, new and old, with the heels of half 2 inches higher than their fellows.
  • A quilted Petticoat of the largest size, and one of Canvas, with whalebone hoops.
  • Three pairs of Stays boulstered below the left shoulder. Two pairs of Hips of the newest fashion.
  • Six Roundabout Aprons, with Pockets, and four strip'd Muslin night rails very little frayed.
  • A silver Cheese toaster with three tongues.
  • A silver Posnet to butter eggs.
  • A Bible bound in Shagreen, with guilt Leaves and Clasps, never opened but once.
  • Two Leather Forehead Cloathes, three pair of oiled Dogskin Gloves.
  • Two brand new Plumpers, three pair of fashionable Eyebrows.
  • Adam and Eve in Bugle work, without Fig-leaves, upon Canvas, curiously wrought with her Ladyship's own hand.
  • Bracelets of braided Hair, Pomander, and Seed Pearl.
  • A large old Purple Velvet Purse, embroidered, and shutting with a spring, containing two Pictures in Miniature, the Features visible.
  • A Silver gilt box for Cashu and Carraway Comfits to be taken at long sermons.
  • A new Gold Repeating Watch made by a Frenchman.
  • Together with a Collection of Receipts to make Pastes for the Hands, Pomatums, Lip Salves, White Pots, and Water of Talk.A MAN OF THE TIME OF QUEEN ANNE - 1702-1714

Of these things one strikes the eye most curiously - the canvas petticoat with whalebone hoops. It dates the last, making me know that the good woman lost her things in or about the year 1710. We are just at the beginning of the era of the tremendous hoop skirt.

A MAN OF THE TIME OF QUEEN ANNE - 1702-1714

The coat has become still more full at the sides. The hat has a more generous brim. Red heels in fashion.

This gentleman from the country will tell me all about it. I stop him and remark his clothes; by them I guess he has ridden from the country.

He is wearing a wide-skirted coat of red with deep flap pockets; his coat has buttons from neck to hem, but only two or three - at the waist - are buttoned. One hand, with the deep cuff pushed back from the wrist to show his neat frilled shirt, is thrust into his unbuttoned breeches pocket, the two pockets being across the top of his breeches.

Cravats

Round his neck is a black Steenkirk cravat (a black silk tie knotted and twisted or allowed to hang over loose). His hat is of black, and the wide brim is turned back from his forehead.Early 1700s Clothing

His wig is a short black periwig in bobs - that is, it is gathered into bunches just on the shoulders, and is twisted in a little bob at the back of the neck.

I have forgotten whether he wore red or blue stockings rolled above the knee, but either is likely. His shoes are strong, high-heeled, and have a big tongue showing above the buckle.

He tells me that in Norfolk, where he has come from, the hoop has not come into fashion; that ladies there dress much as they did before Queen Anne came to the throne.

The fontage is lower, perhaps, the waist may be longer, but skirts are full and have long trains, and are gathered in loops to show the petticoat of silk with its deep double row of flounces.

Long Aprons

Aprons are worn long, and have good pockets. Cuffs are deep, but are lowered to below the elbow. The bodice of the gown is cut high in the back and low in front, and is decked with a deep frill of lace or linen, which allows less bare neck to show than formerly.

A WOMAN OF THE TIME OF QUEEN ANNE - 1702-1714 A WOMAN OF THE TIME OF QUEEN ANNE - 1702-1714

Notice that the fontage has become much lower, and the hoop of the skirt has become enormous. The hair is more naturally dressed.

New Hoops

A very observant gentleman! 'But you have seen the new hoop?' I ask him. Yes, he has seen it. As he rode into town he noticed that the old fashions gave way to new, that every mile brought the fontage lower and the hair more hidden, until short curls and a little cap of linen or lace entirely replaced the old high head-dress and the profusion of curls on the shoulders.

The hoop, he noticed, became larger and larger as he neared the town, and the train grew shorter, and the patterns on the under-skirt grew larger with the hoop.

The Ramillies White Wig

I leave my gentleman from the country and I stroll about the streets to regard the fashions.

Here, I see, is a gentleman in one of the new Ramillies wigs - a wig of white hair drawn back from the forehead and puffed out full over the ears. At the back the wig is gathered into a long queue, the plaited or twisted tail of a wig, and is ornamented at the top and bottom of the queue with a black bow.

New Plaited Wigs - C18th Queen AnneI notice that this gentleman is dressed in more easy fashion than some. His coat is not buttoned, the flaps of his waistcoat are not over big, his breeches are easy, his tie is loose. I know where this gentleman has stepped from; he has come straight out of a sampler of mine, by means of which piece of needlework I can get his story without book.

I know that he has a tremendous periwig at home covered with scented powder; I know that he has an elegant suit with fullness of the skirts, at his sides gathered up to a button of silver gilt; there is plenty of lace on this coat, and deep bands of it on the cuffs.

He has also, I am certain, a cane with an amber head very curiously clouded, and this cane he hangs on to his fifth button by a blue silk ribbon. This cane is never used except to lift it up at a coachman, hold it over the head of a drawer, or point out the circumstances of a story.

Also, he has a single eyeglass, or perspective, which he will advance to his eye to gaze at a toast or an orange wench.

The Lady

There is another figure on the sampler - a lady in one of those wide hoops; she has a fan in her hand. I know her as well as the gentleman, and know that she can use her fan as becomes a prude or a coquette. I know she takes her chocolate in bed at nine in the morning, at eleven she drinks a dish of bohea, tries a new head at her twelve o'clock toilette, and at two cheapens fans at the Change.

An C18th Lady Wearing New Wider Hoop.

I have seen her at her mantua-makers; I have watched her embroider a corner of her flower handkerchief, and give it up to sit before her glass to determine a patch. She is a good coachwoman, and puts her dainty laced shoe against the opposite seat to balance herself against the many jolts; meanwhile she takes her mask off for a look at the passing world. If only I could ride in the coach with her! If only I could I should see the fruit wenches in sprigged petticoats and flat, broad-brimmed hats; the ballad-sellers in tattered long-skirted coats; the country women in black hoods and cloaks, and the men in frieze coats. The ladies would pass by in pearl necklaces, flowered stomachers, artificial nosegays, and shaded furbelows: one is noted by her muff, one by her tippet, one by her fan.

Here a gentleman bows to our coach, and my lady's heart beats to see his open waistcoat, his red heels, his suit of flowered satin. I should not fail to notice the monstrous petticoats worn by ladies in chairs or in coaches, these hoops stuffed out with cordage and stiffened with whalebone, and, according to Mr. Bickerstaff, making the women look like extinguishers - 'with a little knob at the upper end, and widening downward till it ends in a basis of a most enormous circumference.'

To finish. I quite agree with Mr. Bickerstaff, when he mentions the great shoe-shop at the St. James's end of Pall Mall, that the shoes there displayed, notably the slippers with green lace and blue heels, do create irregular thoughts in the youth of this nation.

Anne - 1702-1714 - English Costume by Dion Clayton Calthrop
Reigned twelve years: 1702-1714.
Born 1665. Married, 1683, Prince George of Denmark.

Man - Red Frock Coat 1702-14Woman in English Costume - Anne - 1702-1714

his costume history information consists of Pages 395-405 of the chapter on the first decade of the early C18th dress in the 12 YEAR REIGN era of Queen Anne 1702-1714 and taken from English Costume by Dion Clayton Calthrop.

The 36 page section consists of a text copy of the book ENGLISH COSTUME PAINTED & DESCRIBED BY DION CLAYTON CALTHROP.  Visuals, drawings and painted fashion plates in the book have a charm of their own and are shown amid the text. The book covers both male and female dress history of over 700 years spanning the era 1066-1830.
This page is about dress in the reign of Anne 1702-1714.

For the Introduction to this book see this introduction written by Dion Clayton Calthrop.  I have adjusted the images so they can be used for colouring worksheets where pupils add some costume/society facts.
My comments are in italics.

You have been reading English Costume History at www.fashion-era.com © from the chapter Anne 1702-1714, from Dion Clayton Calthrop's book English Costume.

Page Added 16 August 2010. Ref:-813.

 

NEXT GEORGE I 1714-1727

To Top of Page 

Sitemap   Home

If you like this page then please share it with your friends

 


 *

For more information about English Costume By Dion Clayton Calthrop
see these pages:

Custom Search

About Fashion-Era.com

Fashion-Era.com looks at women's costume and fashion history and analyses the mood of an era.  Changes in technology, leisure, work, cultural and moral values. Homelife and politics also contribute to lifestyle trends, which in turn influence the clothes we wear.  These are the changes that make any era of society special in relation to the study of the costume of a period.Fashion History

Fashion-Era.com can take no responsibility for any information on the site which may cause you error, loss or costs incurred from use of the information and links either directly or indirectly.  This site is owned, designed, written and developed by author: Pauline Thomas and Guy Thomas. This site is designed to be viewed in 1024 X 768 or higher.

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED.  Fashion-era.com reserves the right to add or delete information, graphics and links.  Copyright © 2001-2012 on all content, text and images in Fashion-era.com.  Images and text in this website may not be used on other websites.

Before you write to me for costume/fashion help or information please, please consult the extensive sitemap which lists all our pages.   If you still cannot find the answer after searching the site, then before you email me, please consider if you are prepared to make a donation to the website.

Donations
Reader's donations help this site flourish, in particular donations encourage me to write more articles on fashion history as well as current trends.  PayPal allows anyone with a credit card to donate easily and securely. You may donate any sum you feel appropriate.

If you have any comments, or if you see any broken links, then please email with details of the page url or problem.

˚


Antique Doll House of Patterns
Vogue patterns are a specialty, as well as antique dolls.
With over 100,000 patterns, if you are searching for a specific item, ask us!  Antique Doll House of Patterns




For superb Victorian or Edwardian
re-enactment costumes in USA, try the reproduction costume range at:
 
Recollections for Victorian and Edwardian costumes recollections.biz

Prom Dresses
Prom Dresses
Dresses from $99
Free Shipping
For your beautiful prom dress visit DreamProm

Fantastic ideas on Mother Of The Bride Outfits and Dresses

LovesPromiseRings

Fine Jewelry For Your Love's Promise
Promise Rings
Engagement Rings
Wedding Rings
Designer Rings



Maternity Clothes and Jeans Wide range of Italian fashion for your maternity.
Maternity Jeans
Top selling Italian maternity jeans.