This costume history information consists of Pages 341-355 of the chapter on the
late 17th century dress in the 4 YEAR REIGN era of
James the Second 1685-1689 and taken from English Costume by Dion Clayton Calthrop.
The 36 page section consists of a text copy of the book ENGLISH
COSTUME PAINTED & DESCRIBED BY DION CLAYTON CALTHROP. Visuals,
drawings and painted fashion plates in the book have a charm of their
own and are shown amid the text. The book covers both male and female
dress history of over 700 years spanning the era 1066-1830.
This page is about dress in
the last Stuart reign of King James II 1685-1689.
For the Introduction to this book see this
introduction written by Dion Clayton Calthrop. I have adjusted
the images so they can be used for colouring worksheets where pupils add
some costume/society facts. My comments are in italics.
JAMES THE SECOND
Reigned four years: 1685-1689.
Born 1633. Married, 1661, Anne Hyde; 1673, Mary of Modena.
In such a short space of time as this reign occupies it is not
possible to show any great difference in the character of the dress, but
there is a tendency, shown over the country at large, to discard the
earlier beribboned fashions, and to take more seriously to the long coat
and waistcoat.
Buttoning Up
There is a tendency, even, to become more buttoned up - to
present what I can only call a frock-coat figure.
The Coat
The coat became closer
to the body, and was braided across the front in many rows, the
ends fringed out and held by buttons.
The Long Waistcoat
The waistcoat, with the pockets an
arm's length down, was cut the same length as the coat.
The Tighter Breeches
Breeches were
more frequently cut tighter, and were buttoned up the side of the leg.
The Wider Cuffs
The cuffs of the sleeves were wide, and were turned back well over the
wrist.
The body-coat has now become the universal fashion, as have also the
wide knee-breeches. Buckles are used on the shoes instead of strings.
Of course the change was gradual, and more men wore the transitional
coat than the tight one.
By the coat in its changing stages I mean such
a coat as this: the short coat of the early
Charles II period made
long, and, following the old lines of cut, correspondingly loose. The
sleeves remained much the same, well over the elbow, showing the white
shirt full and tied with ribbons. The shoe-strings had nearly died out,
giving place to a buckle placed on a strap well over the instep.
The Growing Periwig
There is a hint of growth in the periwig, and of fewer feathers round
the brim of the hat; indeed, little low hats with broad brims, merely
ornamented with a bunch or so of ribbons, began to become
fashionable.
»
Swords & Baldricks
Swords were carried in broad baldricks richly ornamented.
The waistclothes of
Mr. Pepys would, by now, have grown into broad
sashes, with heavily fringed ends, and would be worn round the outside
coat; for riding, this appears to have been the fashion, together with
small peaked caps, like jockey caps, and high boots.
The ladies of this reign simplified the dress into a gown more tight to
the bust, the sleeves more like the men's, the skirt still very full,
but not quite so long in the train.
Black hoods with or without capes were worn, and wide collars coming
over the shoulders again came into fashion. The pinner, noticed by
Pepys, was often worn.
But the most noticeable change occurs in the dress of countryfolk and
ordinary citizens.
The men began to drop all forms of doublet, and
take to the long coat, a suit of black grogram below the knees, a sash,
and a walking-stick; for the cold, a short black cloak.
In the country
the change would be very noticeable.
The country town, the countryside,
was, until a few years back, distinctly Puritanical in garb; there were
Elizabethan doublets on old men, and wide Cromwellian breeches, patched
doubtless, walked the market-place.
Hair was worn short. Now the russet
brown clothes take a decided character in the direction of the Persian
coat and knickerbockers closed at the knee.
Clothing Of The Farmer's Wife
The good-wife of the farmer
knots a loose cloth over her head, and pops a broad-brimmed man's hat
over it. She has the sleeves of her dress made with turned-back cuffs,
like her husband's, ties her shoes with strings, laces her dress in
front, so as to show a bright-coloured under-bodice, and, as like as
not, wears a green pinner (an apron with bib, which was pinned on to the
dress), and altogether brings herself up to date.
One might see the farmer's wife
riding to market with her eggs in a
basket covered with a corner of her red cloak, and many a red cloak
would she meet on the way to clep with on the times and the
fashions.
The green apron was a mark of a Quaker in America, and the
Society of Friends was not by any means sad in colour until late in
their history.
Ω
Judge Jeffreys' Hempen Cravat
Most notable was the neckcloth in this unhappy reign, which went by the
name of Judge Jeffreys' hempen cravat.
King James II Costume - 1685-1689
English Costume by Dion Clayton Calthrop
This costume history information consists of Pages 341-355 of the chapter on the
late 17th century dress in the 4 YEAR REIGN era of
James the Second 1685-1689 and taken from English Costume by Dion Clayton Calthrop.
The 36 page section consists of a text copy of the book ENGLISH
COSTUME PAINTED & DESCRIBED BY DION CLAYTON CALTHROP. Visuals,
drawings and painted fashion plates in the book have a charm of their
own and are shown amid the text. The book covers both male and female
dress history of over 700 years spanning the era 1066-1830.
This page is about dress in
the deposed Stuart reign of King James II 1685-1689.
For the Introduction to this book see this
introduction written by Dion Clayton Calthrop. I have adjusted
the images so they can be used for colouring worksheets where pupils add
some costume/society facts. My comments are in italics.
Fashion-Era.com looks at women's costume and fashion history and analyses the mood of an era. Changes in technology, leisure, work, cultural and moral values. Homelife and politics also
contribute to lifestyle trends, which in turn influence the clothes we wear. These are the changes that make any era of society special in relation to the study of the costume of a period.
Fashion-Era.com can take no responsibility for any information on the site which may cause you error, loss or costs incurred from use of the information and links either directly or
indirectly. This site is owned, designed, written and developed by author: Pauline Thomas and Guy Thomas. This site is designed to be viewed in 1024 X 768 or higher.
Before you write to me for costume/fashion help or information please, please consult the extensive sitemap which lists all our pages. If you still cannot find the answer after searching the site, then before you email me, please consider if you are prepared to make a donation to the website.
Donations Reader's donations help this site flourish, in particular donations encourage me to write more articles on fashion history as well as current trends. PayPal
allows anyone with a credit card to donate easily and securely. You may donate any sum you feel appropriate.
If you have any comments, or if you see any broken links, then please email with details of the page url or problem.
Find great anniversary gift ideas from Premier Gifts. Choose from our wide range of anniversary gifts to celebrate your special day in style.
Designer Inspired BagInc Fashion Bags and Cheap Handbags at Wholesale Rates.
This costume history information consists of Pages 341-355 of the chapter on the
late 17th century dress in the 4 YEAR REIGN era of
James the Second 1685-1689 and taken from English Costume by Dion Clayton Calthrop.
