Fabric and Style Guidance Text from the 1930 Booklet
Word Document for 1930 Coat pattern Draft
This page includes a detailed pattern draft chart for a 1930 coat. Originally the pattern was published in Women's Wear Patterns and Fashions Winter magazine way back in September 1930. Much of the italicised text below is exactly as written in the booklet. Other coat fashions from the same booklet are shown on this 1930 coats page. Most of these 1930's coats have a very similar look with intricate seam details that are a wonderful source of information and inspiration for the modern fashion designer. The clear line drawings and back views should also be useful for fashion designers or anyone making theatrical patterns for an early 1930s play.
Please note this draft should only be attempted by those already EXPERIENCED in basic pattern drafting.
I will NOT be able to answer any further questions about this.
The pattern and instructions are exactly as shown in the booklet and will be a familiar technique to those who can already pattern draft.
This pattern assumes you can draft and sew as no sewing instructions are provided either. If this is beyond your ability level then buy a Simplicity/Butterick/Vintage Patterns prepared paper pattern or contact a costume supplier.
A downloadable Word document is available for easier printing and the Word link is at the bottom of this webpage.
You can see some of the other designs in the booklet on this webpage, but the coat on this page is the only pattern chart available. Although astute cutters will recognise areas within this draft to adapt to the other fashion designs here.
WOMEN'S WEAR FASHIONS Sept. 12, 1930
1930 A Smart Coat for the Winter - Size 38 B. (Size 38 Breast)
As written in the booklet:- Many of the new tweed coats for the forthcoming winter season have fancy yokes and strappings combined, which give a very pleasing effect.
In many models there is a strapping extending from the yoke down centre of back to the bottom. This strapping is, of course, seamed in. In the front there is a strapping from point of yoke, extending to the patch pockets on the hips. These strappings are stitched down to a little above pockets.
Fancy patch pockets, such as illustrated on Figure L2527 in series of illustrations of this issue, are commendable to give a smart effect. A belt of suede goes around the waist, fastening in front with a buckle.
The sleeves are designed in a somewhat novel way so as to give a deep cuff effect trimmed with buttons.
Click both these thumbnail left and below right for A4 size copies of this 1930 coat fashion style pattern draft and the coat illustration which could also be used for colouring-in purposes in the school situation.
A4 Picture of the 1930 Coat Draft Instructions for Drafting 1930 Coat Chart
Square lines from O. Note - O is the large double circle top left on the chart at centre back.
1 from O equals one-third scale plus 13/4ins., 8ins.
2 from O equals the natural waist length, 15ins.
3 from 2 equals 7ins., for hip line.
4 from O equals the full length, 40ins.
5 is midway between O and 1.
6 from O equals half O 5 less 1/2 in., 11/2 ins.
Square off from these points.
7 from 2 equals 1/4 in.
8 from 4 equals 5/8in.
Join O 7 8 for centre of back, which is whole.
9 from O equals one-sixth scale less 1/4 in., 27/8ins.
10 from 9 equals 3/4in., and curve to O for back neck.
11 from centre of back equals the half width of back plus 1/4in., 71/4ins.
12 is squared by line 5 11.
From 12 equals 1/2in., and join to 10 as shown.
14 is squared by line 5 11.
15 from centre of back equals 11/4ins., and join to 11 for the yoke.
16 from B equals 11/4ins., and join to 15 for inlet or strapping.
17 is 8ins. above hip line, and indicates the bottom of yoke strap.
18 from centre of back equals half breast plus 21/2ins., 211/2ins.
19 from 18 equals half scale less 3/8in., 9ins.
20 from 19 equals one-sixth scale, 31/8ins.
21 is squared up from 20, and equals the same as O 1 plus 11/2ins., 91/2ins., and connect to 5 as illustrated.
22 from 21 equals the same as 10 to 13 less 1/4 in.
23 from 22 equals 1/2in., and shape to 21.
24 from 19 equals 11/2ins., and connect to 23, and hollow 1/2in., and shape armhole as illustrated.
25 from 21 equals one-sixth scale 31/8 ins., and connect to 18.
26 from 25 equals one-sixth, scale less 1/4 in., 27/8ins.
27 from 21 equals 2ins., and connect to 26.
28 from 27 equals 1in.
29 from 21 equals 1in., and draw crease line to about 1in. above 36.
30 from line 26 27 equals about 21/2ins.
31 is squared down from 18.
32 from 31 equals 1/4in., and draw centre line from 18 through 32 to the bottom.
...(v4r)
33 is located on the hip line.
34 is located on the bottom line.
35 from 34 equals 1/2in.
36 from 32 equals 21/2ins.
37 from 34 equals 21/2ins.
38 from 14 equals 21/4ins.
39 is squared down from 38.
40 from 39 equals 3/4in.
41 from 39 equals 3/4in.
There is an allowance of 21/2ins. provided over the half hip measure from centre of back to 41, and 33 to 40.
42 from line 38 39 equals gin 43 from 42 equals 3/8in.
44 from 8 equals 71/2ins.
45 from 4-1 equals 3ins.
Join 33 42 41 45 for side seams of back, and 38 13 40 44 for the forepart as shown.
46 is located at about 41/2ins. below 30, and a small suppression may be made there in order to keep edge of lapel snug fitting.
47 is 1/2in. below line 1 18, and from 24 equals 3ins.
48 from 47 equals 11/2ins.
49 is squared down from 47.
50 from 49 equals 11/2ins.
51 is located on hip line.
Complete the shaping of strapping, and mark pockets as shown.
52 from 19 equals 3/4in., and fixes the front pitch.
The back pitch is located at 11
‡‡
Instructions for Drafting the Coat Sleeve
Square lines from O. Note - O is the large double circle lower left on the sleeve chart.
1 from O equals the same as 11 to 14 on back, 4ins.
2 from 1 equals the amount registered from 11 to 13 and' 23 straight to 52.
3 is midway between O and 2.
4 from 3 equals 11/2ins.
Connect 2 to 4, adding on 1/4in. of round and join to 4 to 1, adding on 3/4in. of round.
5 from 1 equals 18ins.
6 from 5 equals 11/2ins.
7 is midway between 1 and 5.
8 from 7 equals 1/4in.
9 from 8 equals 73/4ins.
10 from 5 equals 51/4ins.
11 from 1 equals the distance between the two pitches under the arm.
12 from 1 equals 3ins., and hollow 3/8in., and shape to 11 and 9 as shown.
13 from 1 equals 3/4in.
14 from 1 equals 3/4in.
15 from 8 equals 11/2ins.
16 from 5 equals 3/4in.
17 from 5 equals 3/4in.
18 from 10 equals 61/2ins.
19 from 18 equals 31/2ins., and shape to 9.
A piece is inlet from 9 to 19 18, and, of course, must extend well below 18 19 for that part is open to represent a cuff which is ornamented with buttons as illustrated.
End of Coat Pattern Drafting Instructions.
Reports from the ladies, wholesale clothing manufacturers, state that some firms are fairly busy on winter stock orders, especially for flecked tweed coats and juvenile garments. They report that there is very little demand for velours, and those who have stocked heavily in velours may find difficulty in selling some for the trend of fashion at the present is all for flecked tweeds in blue, brown, and fawn.
Mackintosh Styles - 1930
The April-like weather experienced last month proved a cheerful omen for mackintosh makers, who report having done good business. Mackintoshes are now all made very light in weight and artificial silk specially proofed material in the bright colours. Some are reversible, such as small black and white checked design on one side and black on the other, showing a narrow piping of the check on the edges, and cuffs, and looks very effective. Beige, brown, and scarlet are popular colours.
Hockey Wear -1930
Now that winter is approaching many ladies' tailors are receiving orders from hockey clubs for outfits. The newest idea is to wear plus fours with a wrap over skirt arranged to open at the side for freedom of limbs, and the usual cream shirt blouse. Of course, many prefer the navy serge gym frock and knickers of the same colour serge, but a light-weight material.
Strappings Decoration - 1930
A popular feature of the latest models of winter coats is the use of strappings over the shoulders back and front, as far as the hips, below which channel seams are introduced. This idea is largely introduced for the faced velour coats.
Fur Collars - 1930
The fur collars for the winter coats are practically all made to stand up high around the neck, and have a narrow facing inside only, of fur, and the part close to neck is of the same cloth as the coat is made of. Grey dyed furs are being much used for collars this season.
Artificial Silk Fabric - 1930
Many shops are displaying a new style of pyjamas, made from artificial silk fabric. The blouse is of the tuck-in style with a vee-shaped neck and the trousers are of the Mexican shape, with a close-fitting, pointed-in-front yoke, and wide bottoms.
Housecoats - 1930
With the approach of the chilly evenings there is a demand for the velveteen house coat in black, navy, or brown. The style mostly, being shown is S.B. button-one, and having a neat roll collar, and a fairly tight fitting sleeve. Welt pockets are the vogue.
Tweeds - 1930
Ladies' tailors report that many ladies are choosing the same colour and design of tweed as for men save of a lighter weight, such as brown tweed, with a large pin-spot or small herringbone.
Further along in the booklet Women's Wear reports:-
Accordion Pleating
Accordion pleating is very much in favour for the new frock models now being displayed in the dress salons. It is extremely effective for dance frocks, and is being utilised in all kinds of uneven hem designs, etc.
Skirt Lengths - 1930
Although Paris has laid down the law that long skirts are to be the fashion, a visit to the fashionable parts of this country soon convinces one that this long skirt vogue has not materialised as far as outdoor skirts, thus proving that Miss 1930 prefers the shorter skirts. The sports girl does not look upon long skirts with favour. Of course, for evening dresses, longer skirts have become the general fashion. End of article information.
