Every
fashion season has new and previously seen themes running through it.
Fashion trend ideas that filter into mass fashion often start on the
catwalk, but the street fashion of the masses and the way of wearing an
outfit or self styling is just as likely to be copied by a designer.
Designers are forever seeking innovative ways of dressing the body.
Those main couturier derived fashion looks always act as a source for
others to work with at mass level and main looks of this season were discussed on
earlier
pages.
Designers
travel to foreign parts, exotic and ordinary to get a fresh take on an
old idea. Most manufacturers and designers get a large chunk of
their inspiration from the yarn and fabric suppliers. Producers
strive constantly to create novelty fabrics reviving and combining old
and new techniques. Every year textile and fabric fairs show buyers the
latest colours and fabrics to expect 2 years hence. Whilst
fashions seem to come and go quickly to the everyday consumer they are
often a couple of years in the making. See mood boards
here.
Massive
fur Cossack hats like the one left made from real and faux fur appeared
at catwalk fashion shows. Furs of every hue through the creams to
gingers to brown to black range were shown.
Other
novel hats were like high toques or mini bearskin hats, but made from
mink. Also for snowy days trapper hats with ear flaps are both
practical and fashionable.
Baker
boy caps made from tweeds, leather suede and fur reflected the fashion
trend for 60's Beatnik and New Mod Looks. These will easily
morph into beret styles with small brims as the 1940s elements meet
1960s retro Mod.
Knit
hats with tassels or pompoms were youthful in approach and are easy
styles to craft at home as are berets.
Babushka
headscarves and equestrian touches may herald the return of the square
silk scarf. This may be the year to invest in a luxury one by
Hermès or raid your grandmother's wardrobe.
Classic Mandarin
stand and Chanel collars are popular on military jackets and those with
Victorian fashion styling. Look for all sizes of collars,
especially the smallest narrow and deep high stand necks.
Fur collars abound and many have massive shawl collars with extra volume
such as this skin jacket left shows.
Often fur collars such as the one on the green coat above in the page
header sit atop a high Mandarin collar. Some high stand collars
wrap to one side in true mid-late sixties style and are called funnel
necks. All Fur Thumbnail Images
Courtesy IFTF
There are also detachable scarf wrap fur collars and knitted collars
with striped or patterned knit scarves with pompom trims. This is
an easy way to buy into the
Fall 2005 Russian fashion trend.
Dior featured oversized collar revers on short jackets, although the
jackets were not especially cropped looking. The very large coat
collars created a highwayman effect.
Coat/jacket collars are
likely to increase in size to balance increasing lower body volume.
Width at shoulder level in wider collars will also emphasise how small
the waist area is.
Softer looks include lace trimmed or filled in necklines in Edwardian or
Victorian styled blouses.
Square necklines look modern and new and some styles have square smock
panels of Folkloric embellishment. Deep plunging Marilyn Monroe
screen starlet halter V neck slinky gowns were shown for red carpet
looks as were strapless and fine strap gowns.
One of
the most important fashion trends of 2005 is the cropped Hussar military styled
jacket with double rows of buttons - especially brass or metallic
buttons.
Golden
Buttons - Since they have been out of fashion for over a decade metallic
buttons are likely to adorn many garments in the future.
A garment
may also have decorative non functioning oversized buttonholes, fashion
features of the new military line jackets.
Mandarin
stand necks are set with contrast narrow piping such as
red piping with black or navy as the main fabric. They can also be
adorned with shiny lustrous plaited braids. Some jackets are
trimmed with leathers especially leather with texture such as a
crocodile, snake or other reptilian finish.
Grosgrain
ribbon, Monte Carlo tape, Picot braids and herringbone coloured
variations of these braids, plus bullion gold cords and rosebud trims
are combined with construction features where the fabric surface is
textured.
Note
rows of carefully placed tiny buttons, tucks, pin tucks, fine gathers
and application of feathers and marabou trims with
embroidery, Assyrian cross stitch patterns, embroidered Austrian style braids and appliqué.
Fine channels of fur trim
are often used on cashmere cardigans and many longer cardigan coat knits
have large fur collars. Fur and Mongolian fur are used to trim
purses.
Cinched in waists are back. This summer hardware studded leather belts were
very popular slung on the hip and covering that old belly gap between
skirt and top or low rise jeans and top. Left image Courtesy Arcadia
This winter corset belts are a viable alternative.
Topshop have this
great deep corset belt left, which combines all the features of trimming
and texturing of leathers for fall. Look out for corset belts in
all stores and those with equestrian touches are interesting.<
The belt also continues to be worn low on the hips an often worn with
short bolero spencer cardigan wraps that tie just under the bust. So the
waist and the long torso gets a new focus in that the bust and hips are
all lines which are emphasised.
Look out for the return of sleeve interest against sleeveless
garments as in some spaghetti strap and strapless dresses.
Beret sleeves, bell sleeves, angel sleeves and very full leg
o'mutton sleeves give volume fullness and echo period costume.
For those not quite ready for so much volume, note that many newer
sleeves have quite small puffed heads. This is especially
noticeable on neat tailored jackets where a small well cut puffed head
can give a sharp shoulder line.
The number of buttons on lower sleeves is increasing with rows of
lower sleeve buttons for about one sixth of the sleeve with an average
of 6 rather than 3 or 4 buttons.
Blouse
cuffs are often now deeper with a depth of 5 or more inches in
Victorian
style. They can also run the lower sleeve to elbow acting as a slim
line long cuff especially when topped with a fuller puffed top sleeve.
Cargo sleeves are an
interesting innovation where sleeves have pockets set on the upper side
arm.
Some sleeves flop over
the hand and others are firmly three quarter. Other sleeves
just go straight into capes or mantelet effects!
Cape
mantelet sleeves
on suits are a new development not seen for many years and have a
theatrical quality. Capes and cloaks are gradually returning as an
acceptable 'new' cover ups.
The
coat is the favourite item of many designers this season.
60s influence means wearable fashion coats. The New Mod fashion trend has
easy wear double breasted pea type jacket coats, plus 60s coats with wide square
collars Jackie Kennedy style. It also means bold check coats, huge collars
and extra metal hardware such as belt straps and grommets on coats and jackets.
As stated
earlier, a Military style cropped jacket
is a seasonal must have fashion garment for autumn 2005/winter 2006.
Check out River Island who stock a military velvet jacket at £50 and
Hobbs for a great short pea coat.
It's a long time since we have seen a great deal of topstitching, but
topstitching and contrasting white or cream saddle stitching has
reappeared. Some folkloric items have loop (blanket) stitch around
edges and hems and many easy wrap pareos have fringe on lower edges.
A rich velvet skirt is a sure winner to add to your wardrobe.
This is likely to be a major fashion trend this autumn winter 2005/6.
One of the best to die for opulent folkloric velvet skirts with rich
decoration of gold, buttons, beads appliqué and embroidery on deep plush
rich wine/burgundy velvet is by Oscar de la Renta. It is such an opulent
look and has been shown with a fulsome 'luxury' white peasant blouse –
marvellous. Lets hope there are plenty of great
copies!
The nearest skirts to gypsy skirts will be will be those that
are long and dramatic with fewer tiers, perhaps just a hip yoke, but in
richer more opulent fabrics like velvet. Many will have more ornate
beading, appliqué and contrast of textures such as mini ruching.
Babushka dirndl skirts drip with the enrichment of Appliqué, metal studs,
grommets, leather trims, soutache, beads, and sequins feature on skirt
materials as varied as tweed, velvet and cotton.
Hip cowls have appeared on straight skirts, but this is a difficult
look to wear and can be clown like if the choice of fabric is poor.
Puffball
skirts have been shown by many designers, but it may take some time
before consumers take pouff skirts seriously!
The range of skirts to choose from is enormous, from slim and pencil straight
to voluminous, long to knee length. Select from longer elegant
Edwardian lines to knee length Victorian dirndls that have peek a boo touches
showing chiffon underskirts beneath hemline frills. Look out for those with
smocking to hip and cross stitch bands of folkloric embroidery. That
waist will be on show so get exercising now.
However
the elegant look shown on this link
here
by Oscar de la Renta would be perfect for a special winter function if
you are seeking a new look. The problem with this look, is
that the high street version is unlikely to hack it well this year.
For this look to work the wearer needs confidence and the tailor needs
great construction skills where tapes and stays are used underneath to
maintain a great shape as originally intended by the designer.
This is where couture and high end designer ready to wear can outdo the
high street.
Image Courtesy Arcadia
Designers Armani, Moschino, Versace and Vuitton all favoured the pencil skirt,
but this is another fashion that seems women often reject in favour of more
comfortable, less formal options.
Of course
all the skirt styles this season are also made as mini skirts as shown
in this Topshop version left.The
denim mini skirt right worn over a check mini dress is part of Topshop's
AW05/06 fashion range and called Tibetan.
BLUE COTTON SHORT SLEEVE CHECK SHIRT DRESS
£35 €53
We seem to
be wearing trouser styles that we feel suit us rather than adopting one
main style. But trouser shapes are changing and this autumn the
skinny jean should become more popular. Narrower trousers are needed
to push into boots to get the right look. Skinny black or grey drainpipe jeans will be
just the ticket for the lean Tomboy Look. Gap skinny jeans have
great fit and are not expensive and Topshop and River Island both have
skinny jeans in stock now.
At Topshop seek out their
Baxter line.
Embellishing and
personalizing your own jeans with decorative touches is also a great tip
for autumn and great for those who like to create individual customized
clothing.
Skinny riding jodhpurs
also look good tucked into boots with a cropped or Aviator line jacket.
The skinny jodhpurs look especially good with traditional British tweeds
giving country/Equestrian styling.
Other styles include wider Oxford bag shapes
Aviator
style. The masculine style of tailored trousers have a Hepburnesque
touch and can be glamorous when worn by well groomed woman.
Cavalli's trousers have a hint of Katherine Hepburn turn
ups and the space age 60s version by Balenciaga has the skinniest of button front trousers that
flare low down are another possible style for many.
Some designer trousers such as Galliano at Dior showed
decorative button areas or button cuff inserts at the ankle of trousers especially on
narrower trousers. This was an interesting novel new touch and may well be a
really innovative look that filters into mass produced goods.
The recent
fashion for shorts from tailored and cuffed to short shorts may only
make it through winter if wearers adopt textured tights and some of the
wonderful boots on offer.
But there
are also items called a SKORT (yes you read skort correctly) a
new concept of a short skirt with modesty shorts beneath. Skorts
are available from Milletts in UK and are suitable for active holidays.
Raised
high empire waists offer an alternative to the fitted cinched in 1950s
Screen Starlet Look of the Hitchcock Heroine variety.
At Dior there was a
move from halters to 2 straps emerging from the centre of a bust
yoke as a V shape. Asymmetric straps and itsy bitsy straps are
still popular for red carpet events.
From the wide range of autumn
winter 2005-2006 looks available make your own personal fashion
statement. Only a few items will emerge as key looks from those
detailed here. Note again that the big fabric trends are velvet,
flatter tweeds often with fur and embellished skirts and all usually in
strong rich deep inky jewel colours. Tailoring has structure and
form and whilst the rolled under hem may create a pouff effect, so far
the uptake is slow for this pouff skirt fashion.
Velvet and crushed velvet can be worn day or evening
If you think you might feel overdressed in velvet then
opt instead for shoes, bags or scarves. Suede velvet gloves can
also add allure.
As predicted earlier this year closer neater shorter
jacket have become even more cropped to the ultimate snug cut of the
Spencer jacket stage. Little knit shrugs like the
Topshop Tibetan one shown
above add a welcome extra layer of warmth to a brief top. Monsoon has
lots of styles of shrugs, tie front wraps and little cropped cardigan spencer lines
and bolero cardis.
The Noughties Beatnik Look.
Obviously black is the main feature of this Beatnik New Mod
autumn 2005/ winter 2006 look. Black skinny jeans worn with a
short skinny fitted Sgt. Pepper military jacket can be teamed with a long tunic
that is not so long and that it can easily double as a mini dress when required.
High street shops that will do this look well include Topshop, Miss
Selfridge, George at Asda. Marks and New Look.
Women over 30 who want a sixties vibe in
their wardrobe can either add throwaway touches like Baker Boy caps and
scarves or opt instead for the full on glamour look of the Hitchcock ice
queens. For this you need an hour glass figure and a desire to embrace
grooming and style with the generous full skirts of 1950’s debutantes.
Look out for appliqué and dull copper and pewter sequins that glimmer as
these circular skirts move. Or opt for the slick pencil skirt of
Hitchcock heroines.
Difficult Looks Autumn 2005
If you are not sure as its such a new look, then avoid puff ball skirts
as well as bulky
voluminous tweed skirts. Tweed skirts are fine, but stick to the
flatter less cumbersome versions. Try on half a dozen styles in finer tweed
suiting and recognise which flatter and which do not. Don't forget to
check that mirror to see the back view.
The Beatnik Look is aimed at daughters, not
mothers, so be careful if you adopt this look as it may make you look like
mutton dressed as lamb especially if you saw this fashion with first hand
experience. Forget fake tan with the noughties beatnik look
unless the chav touches are essential to your existence! But some long
willowy sleek hair extensions might capture the Julie Christie hairstyle
look.
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