Last autumn it was obvious that texture and
colour dominated the runways. In short, female trends for Summer 2005
will see a very feminine approach to summer fashion styles.
There are about a dozen main looks that have
emerged from designer's spring summer shows, but the key is in the
quirky edgy details. Those little differences. Choose carefully
to suit your figure and personality. The key pieces I'm opting for
myself are shorter boxy, cropped jackets, with just below elbow or
three quarter sleeves. I bought my first shorter, bracelet sleeve jacket a year ago and
am now convinced the closer neater shorter jacket as a fashion piece will get more and more
cropped in the next year through
Edwardian bolero styles to the ultimate snug cut of the
Spencer jacket stage.
Nearly every designer included some cropped
jackets in their shows in a wide variety of materials and they will work
well with fuller, soft gypsy skirts as well as trousers or over dresses.
The cropped jacket will be a highly wearable item and is set to be one of
the biggest fashion choice trends of 2005. It can be anything from a
cropped Chanel line jacket to a skinny shorter bodied blazer.
As a bonus it's also perfect as a cover up in
summer air conditioning or cooler evenings. Designers will merely take
it a step further at some point this year and by next winter I predict we
will be wearing spencer jackets in force, perfect under cocooning capes or
jackets with cape like backs.
Whilst the pencil skirt is a designer must
have for this year too, panel and A line gypsy skirts will be the way to go.
Fuller width means maxi in length or just above ankle. If you like
shorter lengths to show those legs then cropped trousers or knee shorts or
the pencil skirt is great alternative, but it puts bodies on show which may
of course be your intention. The pencil skirt looks so much better
with high heels, but wedges may be an option.
Probably the next most
important look of 2005. Lots of white or coloured gypsy skirts and
petticoats that give a bottom half which is wider and fuller.
The Volume
Look
The Volume look
is new so avoid extremes as you adapt to it. Much of the volume is
focused on the lower half of the body.
The Skinny
Look
The
skinny look is of severe pared down minimalism, giving a lean
silhouette. Elements have a neat sharp edge that says zeitgeist
moment.
The Empire Look
Raised high empire waists
should be strong look for dresses and tops which may feature bohemian,
tribal, Kaftan styles or other fads.
These looks
below are different looks, but all easily mixed
together under the guise of 'ethnic'.
African Tribal Look
Pick an aspect like African tribal jewellery, tribal prints, faux animal
fur fringe or choose native American symbols - any would work well for
moving fluidly into these ethnic and folkloric themes.
The Bohemian Look
You could work the gypsy look in with this, but it's
vital to understand the importance of the silhouette of the gypsy look.
The Clunky Arts 'n Crafts Look
Likewise if you are not keen on jewellery start with
wooden heeled cowboy or ethnic boots. Try though to avoid
looking like a walking collage.
The Botanical Look
Vibrant to soft colour with femininity. From Miami to Madrid to Milan, flower prints are favourites. Sprigs to bi-coloured toile de jouy to full exotic
blossoms in landscape colours and bird scenes coexist. Sometimes the prints are covered up with enveloping cardigans or capelets or neat cropped jackets to keep to the layered theme.
~
Perennial Classics
Empire line dresses that are feminine also feature in this look.
The Nautical
Look
A naval theme
easy to achieve with classic striped pieces such as sweaters or
T-shirts, sailor collars and navy and white flowing pants.
The Skinny Look includes commercially sharp collections
and snappy sharp tailoring for women. The skinny
look with boyish styling is ideal for skinnies. It's the snappy chic look
with perhaps a skinny cropped close fitting blazer, a safari jacket and shorts or skinny jeans tucked
into boots.
This
is a really new look which makes the body seem as if cocooned in fabric. Like fashion of the
1870-80s, dresses are
covered in an abundance of swags, layers, bows and pleats, ornamentation and
sheer volume of fabric.
Full
bubble skirts (in the past called the puffball skirt), hooped skirts and
small panier styles show how the trend to volume in clothes will progress with some movement of
the waist rising above the normal waistline. Volume will be
supported by the correct under petticoats being available. To get the
look you will need the correct under petticoats and often the petticoats
will be intended to be seen. This is a look that might take a while to surface.
The public will either love it or loathe it.
A
more acceptable volume look for most of us will be the big cardigan look
that envelopes and cocoons as we use it with other layers to achieve the
perfect personal eco environment. There's volume and volume. Take your
pick.
Most
of the looks under eclectic ethnic, pay homage to global elements that
create a bohemian look borrowed from many sources and derived from many
countries and highlight tribal, African, peasant, folkloric, Indian,
Japanese, Polynesian, Romany, Moroccan, Puerto Rican, Mongolian and native American
Indian traditional decorative embellishments. The theme is go
native.
The ‘gypsy’ look will
be next years most widespread trend when
topped off with disproportionate bling with rococo elements such as shells
or spangles, metallic lustre sandals and an excess of accessories. The look
is not peasant poor, but with tones of tempting Rita Hayworth in exotic
mesmerizing gypsy mode, sultry and seductive. Skirts are fuller than they
have been for years and billow with fabric.
A
fascination with hand crafted looks is a strong theme for 2005.
Individuality is the name of the new fashion game.
Identikit fashion
is out and you can express yourself with individually crafted looks.
Choose your style, make your statement, make it yourself or buy it from an
independent lone worker. Express yourself and be you.
2005 will
be the year to dig out those knitting needles, that knitting machine or long
underused crochet hook or get your macramé knotting skills up to scratch. But this is craft with a difference - the yarn
is cashmere, angora, silk or linen with silk and ramie.
The
commercial look will consist of layers of texture and embellishment
with perhaps a hem of sequin decoration overlaid or underlain with more layers of perhaps
a second and even third embellished appliquéd hem.
Garments that look as if they have been clumsily recycled will appear with
decorative cut outs and will strongly feature badly applied appliqué.
This clumsy, roughly worked appliqué with a clunky effect that is intended
to be a naïve, folksy and amateurish will be easy to apply as a custom
finish to your own garments.
Already high street stores have honed in on this texture with clunky
hand crafts
look and here are some bags from the Marks and Spencer Per Una range I
photographed last week.
Hand painted Watercolour paint effects are
part of the garden/botanical theme. Dreamy pastel
printed florals, tropical vibrant
hothouse flowers and Toile de Jouy fresh prints all sit side by side. The
latter have that clean rain washed summers past quality. Some prints have flowers
so large they easily cover half a skirt and become abstracted. Others
feature as garlands of roses, using impressionist to cubist paint techniques.
The Wrist - The New
Attention Zone
a Fashion Trend of 2005
The wrist is the next new
attention zone, some have even called it the new erogenous zone. The
nakedness of a lower arm against a covered up torso will be the new area of
interest. Women and girls at long last rapidly abandon the low slung
naked bellies now so passé and so it seems so disliked by many.
The three-quarter sleeve or bracelet length
sleeve will maintain it's positions as a modern looking sleeve on garments. Many
sleeves will have flounces to finish them and draw even more attention to
the wrist. Because of this,
gloves
will be the perfect 'new' accessory to cover the area of wrist flesh lending
a new interest and variety to clothes, adding chic glamour styling when
overdressed with cuffs and charm bracelets.
After fashions set in the film
The Aviator
some will adopt boldly contrasting gloves for outfits and use them in the
way shoes have been used as symbols of desire in the past decade. Some
sleeves at the elbow will be finished with ruffles making them evoke
memories of C18th
Watteau Pleat dress.
The shorter sleeves in general will encourage
an old style technique of turning back the sleeve edge on longer garments to
show a contrast lining.
To compliment the attention on the hands and
wrists large cabochon rings and
rings reminiscent of the 1960s dress rings will soon emerge as the next must
have piece of jewellery. Plenty of rings such as the latter can be found in
the back rows of jewellers display cabinets of second hand rings.
Asymmetric large cowl like bertha side collars
and oversized decorative non functioning buttonholes will feature on cropped
jackets. Zips that don’t fully zip up, but act as decorative hardware
show a new attention to fasteners as facets of embellishment that are purely
decorative rather than utilitarian.
Trouser shapes are changing. There is a
whole range to choose from. These are the main styles of trousers to
emerge for summer 2005 - shorts to cut off cropped trousers, rolled up
trousers, knickerbockers, culottes and skinny drainpipes to straight cut
thirties bags often with turn ups and which flop over the shoe almost obliterating
the shoe upper. The rolled up trouser look will get its look from the
fabric used.
After the boot cut trouser, shapes can always go two
ways. They can either go much narrower and skinny jeans have already
done this. Skinny jeans can be worn inside boots or used as stiletto
jeans. Choose some skinny jeans such as those by James Jeans from
designers Siun Kim and James Chung who make jeans designed to slim and
flatter the inner thigh. In the UK you can get these from Matches from
approx £130.
Or the upper leg can widen until it reaches
the outside of the flare and morph into the Oxford bag shapes of the 1930s. Look
to the 1930s for inspiration and the film
The Aviator for classy well cut
trousers, with length, style and grace.
Some trousers have turn ups, others flop well over the
shoe and it is these little differences that are important. All should be cut in quality fabric and worn with well cut smart
tailored shirts or blouses. Being waisted and looped these trousers
can be finished with either a tie dyed scarf threaded through the belt loops
or use a great belt. The belt really can be the designer item that
gets worn time and again. The use of a tie dyed or hand crafted silk
scarf means you can follow one of the season's hot looks without going over
Boho.
Alternative fashion belts you could use are macramé or bead encrusted belts.
Embroidery is abundant on dress now and will
be even more in fashion trend terms this spring and summer 2005.
Varying from coarse and rustic to fine and delicate, to multi coloured wools
or silk threads to single tones of silver and often combined with beading or
sequins or other sparkle effects. Every variation is there and often
in skirts specifically intended for daytime, but which are perfect for
dancing.
Traditional fair isle circular knitted yokes, Missoni
style zigzags or Argyle patterns make an interesting change from plain and
textured knits.
Remember garter stitch garments of a decade
ago that replaced picture knits and intarsia sweaters. Well after the
zigzags and stripes of this spring look next for jacquard and fair isle
knitting both back on the scene.
You'll probably be buying some once you see film
The Aviator.
Contrast colour schemes like pink and black, turquoise and browns, lime and
lilacs or rust and creams bring new vibrancy to knits. Accessorise
your knit cardigans with skinny belts or replace buttons with pearl or
diamante buttons for the latest fad.
Spencer style cardigans will be the knitwear
version of cropped jackets.
Hand knitting is back in style with a
vengeance, as knitters across the globe take up their knitting needles and
create gorgeous confections using textured and beribboned yarns, that add
'original' looking hand crafted appeal with ease as individuals strive to
connect with their creative side and pass away time relaxing and cocooning
at the same time. Crafts in general will see a resurgence as original
novelty in dress takes hold.
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