By Pauline Weston Thomas for Fashion-Era.com

Table of content

• Summary
• General Fashion Look Trends For Autumn 2004 - Winter 2005
• General Trends Affecting 2004 Fashion Textiles
• Fashion Trends that Will Take Off in 2004 
• Innovations for New Areas of Body Exposure
• 2004 Fashion For Men
• The Colour Palette for 2004 Fashion
• Fabric Prints and Fabric Surfaces in 2004 Fashion
• The Importance of Fashion Trends in Linen Looks in 2004
• 2004 Fashion color, Fabrics, Pattern & Textures
• Fabric Trends 2004/2005
• Techniques in Material Trends 2004/2005
• Designer Influences on 2004 Fashion Trends
• Designer Trends From Milan, Paris, New York and London Affecting Fashion for Fall 2004 & Winter 2005
• 2004 Fashion Accessories 
• Good Colors for Autumn Winter Fashion Trends 2004 and 2005

Summary - Fashion is Ever Cyclical.

If you have been following fashion trends this year of 2004 and shopping generally or scouring the summer sales, you will already know that fifties revived styles have been big fashion themes.  As far as retro fashion trends go, the fifties may be here to stay awhile. 

From a mass market fashion point of view, of average priced typical clothing shops in UK at the time of writing (late June 2004) - French Connection, Top Shop, New Look, Oasis, Hennes, Dorothy Perkins, Jigsaw, Kaliko and Kew are just some of the makes that have all flirted with aspects of 1950's retro fashion styling. There is no doubt this will follow on as a fashion trend into autumn 2004 and winter 2005.

Not everyone likes 50's inspired fashion trends.  Many women over 45 feel they have seen the look before and many find it just a bit too young to get away with.  If however you are under 30, have a great waist and like the girliness of the styling, then the mood may be just for you. 

If you are over 35 then be selective in what you choose going for the more classic aspects of the more grown up fashions.

But as cyclical fashion goes the 50s is being challenged by style elements from other decades such as the 1970s and the 1960s.  Several designers this season have even looked to the 1980s attempting to reinvent the broad shoulder and the larger sleeve head. 

You are reading an original fashion article written by Pauline Weston Thomas© at www.fashion-era.com ©.

Color Cycles

All these eras had interesting colour cycles.  For example the 1960s had bright lively colours, especially jewel colours and used strong primary and bold secondary colours. The 1970s continued some of these tones to begin with, but as the decade progressed these moved toward earthier and softer more wistful tones such as aubergine and rust. 

The 1980s began with some bright cheerful jewel tones, but by mid decade the rise of street style saw black reduce the colour palette to a shade card almost as dull as camouflage.  Minimal colour was the order of the day.  The murky and expensive tones of taupe and grey blended into the background by the 1990s.

Then the 1990s saw black and more black or camel or navy relieved only by bright plain pashmina shawls toward millennium eve. At the turn of the century there was also a great deal of iridescent fabric about and this sheen whether pearl or metallic on fabrics looks set to continue through part of the noughties.

Whichever revival attracts you, colour will be a strong feature of future fashion in the next few years.  For the noughties to set a look that marks the decade some changes such as embracing colour are essential. 

At last it has happened and we can see the decade is moving toward change and will make its mark.  This gives us just enough time to embrace it fully with pleasure, before a designer decides to revive the 90s with black and even more black!!!

Bright Colour is Back

There is no doubt that in 2003 and 2004 women and girls began to look more feminine again as colourful and cheerful fabric prints have slowly crept back into a corner of most women's wardrobes.  Amid a sea of grey and beige the brighter colours are gaining favour with every age group.  Suddenly individuals are no longer shy of colour. 

Bright is back. 

The grey, beige or taupe look may sometimes be expensive looking dependant on fabric and cut and may comfort individuals to blend anonymously in cities, but it can be so deadly dull and drab. 

The likely big hits for next winter 2005 will be the fur collar/trim/stole or fur tippet, the winter weight poncho, the shoulder cape, the trench coat and following closely on from that, the belted tailored winter coat.  Already ponchos are flying out of stores. 

On a recent (June 2004) shopping trip I noticed woman after woman picking up a poncho in several different venues and taking the poncho to the checkout till.  The great bonus was of course that it did not even need to be tried on.  It was just a colour and texture choice. 

Perfect for presents to others and oneself.  Let us hope that winter versions will appear in yarns and fabrics rather more luxurious and costly in appearance than some of the tacky acrylic yarn ponchos we have seen to date. 

The poncho is such a useful item, but I have only seen one quality poncho I would actually like to wear and would honestly consider purchasing.  The nicest quality autumn poncho I have seen is a soft lambswool angora mix one by Autograph, selling in selected Marks and Spencer stores and retailing at about £49.  Sadly it is not available on the internet even though others are available at the site. 

If you want to spend £250-300 on one by say Joseph for example, you can certainly get better ponchos, but they are not in everyday high street shops yet.  Do let me know if you find attractive ones.

And don't forget those Ugg boots that some of you missed last winter.  There will be plenty of opportunity to buy this year's version as fur on the foot will be as popular as fur on the collar.

At long last there will be (for many like myself) a welcome return to the waist in its natural position and the demise of the low-rise waist in favour of high waist jeans.  When the waist returns, tailoring always returns too. 

Adult women are fed up of the low rise waist and too short tops that expose the midriff.  The fact that many younger women have started to wear little flounced waisted mini skirts over the top of low slung jeans or trousers suggests not so much a new fashion, but a practical cover up of a bare area that they women and girls no longer wish to have bare. 

Ponchos that are long enough to cover the same below waist area have flown out of the stores in the past months.  Are customers trying to tell designers we've had enough of the low rise waist and want to cover it up.

You are reading an original fashion article written by Pauline Weston Thomas© at www.fashion-era.com ©.

General Fashion Look Trends For Autumn 2004 - Winter 2005

Equestrian Styling Trends 2004/2005

Parisian fashion shows in March 2004 showed international designers like Gaultier, Demeulemeester, and Helmut Lang often thinking alike as many added equestrian touches to their designs. 

Equestrian styled trouser pocket flaps, traditional expensive looking tan riding boots and gleaming printed Hermes style scarf fabrics covered in equestrian references all add up to a winter where the horse will be a significant motif or theme in styling. 

Metallic chains that emulate the horse bit and ring snaffles, already seen decorating handbags last autumn, will be to the fore.  Hardware on bags is the winter look for 2005.

Feminine Styles Get Masculine Touches

Many designers used pinstriped fabrics, tweeds and traditional fair isle patterning on knits for women, all elements borrowed from the boys and traditional masculine tailoring looks.

Headmistress Prim Trends 2004/2005

Marc Jacobs favoured a prim and proper look as did Donna Karan and Ralph Lauren.  Modesty panels of chiffon, where none might have existed before were seen on bodice fronts. The prim and proper ladylike look is set to be really big for autumn 2004 and winter 2005.  Modesty is back and over exposure of flesh is out.

Modern Romance Trends 2004/2005

Bows of all types from embroidered bows on necklines to traditional tied bows on corset style bodices will feature often, especially in knits.  Homage was paid to Marie Antoinette in the frills and styling of many an ensemble with colours that were reminiscent of the C18^th. 

Boots frilled with lace at the calf top were a pantomime like reference that was new and feminine.

Russian Military and Fur Themes Trends 2004/2005

Knit and fur used together was a feature of many shows.  The reference could have easily been from the heart of Mongolia and the tribes of Ghengis Khan or the Russian steppes and straight out of Dr. Zhivago on occasion.  Add to the fur look frog fastenings and Hussar hats and the Russian story lives again.  Prada and Moschino led some of these looks.

Silhouette Features to Watch in 2004/2005

Comme de Garçons decided that it was time to reinvent the gigot sleeve by letting the sleeves dangle from jackets from any point back or front.  Couple this with more voluminous layered silhouettes and larger shoulders that are broad and engulfing and dresses hemmed with fur or flounces and we have a striking larger silhouette that replaces the retro slender 70s line many have followed in the past few years.

Fringed edges and raw tweed turnings will be a texture return that defines the noughties.  Note that the bootcut trouser fashion shape is the most common shape in shops now, yet did not really exist at the turn of the century other than among the very fashion forward.  Look out for new skinny trouser leg and drainpipe shapes.

Accessories and Trims Trends 2004/2005

Accessories are back, particularly gloves as are animal print bags, chains with fake diamond charms, coloured metallic chains decorating dresses, ribbon threaded through knits, two tone black and white shoes, silver heeled boots, jewel heeled shoes, frilled and cuffed calf high boots and most notable of all, fur trimming everywhere, whether as a small tuft worked into a knit, a banding of fur at a coat hemline or an accessory.

Those who love trims will relish the ribbons and pretty detailing found not only on dresses, belts and bags, but also on shoes. 

Colourful giant suede bags from Pringle and bags embellished with multi colours or woven embroidered bags and holdalls will translate well to the high street.  Colourful patchwork elements will be a feature of many bags that also have contrast linings.  Fur bags will delight with their cosy texture.

Luxury yarn scarves and stoles in cashmere and alpaca or mohair, will come richly embellished with pearlized effects, embroidery or spangles.  Burnt out devore velvets will be a strong fashion as they look great in rich jewel tones.

Jewellery Trends 2004/2005

Pearls and more pearls at the neck.  Pearls of every pastel hue from small to large have renewed cache. Lavender and other pastel pearls will be popular.  Chandelier style earrings of shorter length than last year will abound, but probably wane in popularity in the next year.

Silver is still desirable, but other metallics and copper tones in costume jewellery are making inroads.  Meanwhile the gleam of gold is set to return.

Brooches are huge fashion news.  Use them to add life to any piece of clothing or any accessory.  Look out for tattoo effect brooches, snakes, lizards, dragons and reptile effects.

Jewels have also been used by many designers to encrust collars and belts. Some of us may prefer to just tone that down a little and stick to a more modest version of this by indulging ourselves in some shoes with jewelled heels, perfect for parties.

You are reading an original fashion article written by Pauline Weston Thomas© at www.fashion-era.com ©

General Trends Affecting 2004 Fashion Textiles

Global communication influences on fashion 2004. Validity of cocooning, sports styling, cotton and linen for Spring/Summer 2004 fashions. Novelty fabrics, fashion trends,  casual urban dress as a mass trend in 2004. 2004.  Coat styles. Fair Isle and Tyrolean influences in knits in 2004.

New fashion statement makers will emerge as we approach the middle of the first decade of the 21st century.  Global trends now emerge faster than ever before as the internet and text messaging, shortcuts transmission of ideas and concepts between individuals, bringing the next big thing to you and me in the space of seconds. 

In 2004 -2005 a new fashion focus will develop around centres like Dubai, Delhi and Japan as well as the Eastern Bloc.  Fashion trends and influences in 2004 from these places combined with translating what these cultures consider to be western ideas of street fashion trends, will give a fresh, but sometimes exotic interpretation to traditional Western styles. 

In 2004/5 new and important trends will emerge from countries such as Romania, Estonia and Hungary once regarded as followers rather than innovators of Western fashion and lifestyle.

From 2004 as Global communication and video conferencing becomes the norm buyers will be able to speak directly and swiftly with business colleagues, customers and clients and so these centres will become lively fashion statement makers. 

They will be demonstrating new fashion ideas in clothing, accessories, style and lifestyle every bit as important globally as fashion influences from London, Paris, New York, Milan and Los Angeles have been in the past.

Who will wear what in 2004?

Mass manufacturing and rapid creative copying of a fashion catwalk design means that many of us can afford innovative looks at high street prices without the couture price tag. 

Age is no barrier to following a fashion trend or making a fashion statement as 10 becomes the new 18 and 50 is the new 35.  Consumers will crave new and different products, actively be seeking new fashion forward items on each shopping expedition.

Once you would never have seen a woman over 45 in one of the UK's TopShops, today they are a significant part of the customer base.  Many who shop in the UK's Per Una outlets within Marks and Spencer are buying snappy 'just in time' fashion items in the same section as their daughters and granddaughters. 

These consumers are more concerned with the innovative approach to new styling and the use of new fabric finishes and textures.  They consider the why and how, and what will it do for them when buying an item, rather than does their generation's age match the marketing demographic profile of what a typical Ms.45+ might like to wear.  

Ms.45+ may well think that the garments the marketing has bookmarked with her in mind would be better suited to her granny who is 90.

Just in time is a concept that suits not only the manufacturers and retail suppliers, but also consumers who have long associated exclusivity and scarcity to mean desirable and therefore luxurious, even though the cost in this example above is affordable to most.  

Just in time helps consumers to feel unique. It enables consumers to reward themselves frequently with affordable luxuries that enhance their perception of self image of their unique personal style. 

Likewise the kidult, the adultescent and the rejuvenile generation are adults in their thirties and forties who behave and dress as they choose, wearing clothes directed at teenagers and following marketing trends and pleasure activities directed at their children. 

Market researchers have named such individuals who reject adult choices in favour of youthful tastes as the kidult, the adultescent and the rejuvenile generation.

Cocooning – In 2004 staying at home to relax and just be secure, will become an important lifestyle factor that will continue throughout the decade.  As dress becomes less formal and more casual most of the time, even in work time, so does the desire for differentiation between leisure wear and just casual wear with casual brand names becoming an even more important focus as status symbols. 

Clothes to cocoon in will be soft and comfortable, stretching and retaining shape. Today comfort is one of the main qualities required of clothing for over 50% of consumers, as is easy wear easy care.

Sports styling will continue to dictate many casual designs throughout 2004, although natural looks where the fabric makes the statement will also be important.  Tom Ford the fashion designer has suggested that the average consumer is 'only interested in jeans and T-shirts for daytime'. 

If this is correct, sportswear and sports styling will continue to grip consumers who desire comfort in everyday wear, yet as couch potatoes hardly ever indulge in the activities for which the clothes were originally designed.

To counteract this sports styling some consumers will also seek exquisite top garments and accessories or label led tops to wear with casual designer trouser bottoms, short above knee skirts or limited issue jean styles. 

Worn along with fancier showgirl footwear will help marry a mix of feeling powerfully dressed up and casually comfortable all at once - casual clothes will almost merge with dressier styles so that the two show miniscule differences that are visually read by those in the know.

Cotton and Linen will be the fabrics of Spring and Summer 2004 as the demand for natural fabrics continues and supports the casual, but chic discreet look of understated elegance.

Interesting finishes and blends with Lycra®, added to Linen will add versatility to this fabric and will help capture a market previously put off by linen creasing almost as fast as it is donned.  The company Moravolen has produced a range of elastic half linen fabrics under the registered name Stretchlin®. Despite this innovation crumpled poor ironing and wrinkled looks will still feature.

Manipulated textiles and variations with precise texture weaves make for interesting sophisticated and subtle looks along with layered contrasting fabrics of tulle, chiffons, bubble fabrics, crinkle printed semi sheer crêpons, satins, satin backed crêpes, striped and gauze fabrics.

New ways of adding interest with lace, ribbon, hem stitching, texture, precision weaves, filigree decoration, yarn cut work, self fabric fringing and embroidery abound.  Fortuny pleating will be very popular as will pin tucks.

Satin and satin effect finishes in 2004 will be a favourite, as a whole generation unfamiliar with satin’s last real outing in the 1980s, wallows in the sophisticated effects and tactile qualities of this elegant fabric.

Silk dupion with satin slubs are a variation on this.  Lustrous viscose and silk jersey knit fabrics support the demand for sheen as does ribbon meandering appliqué on knits.

Fashion Trends that Will Take Off in 2004 

include hip stitched pleated skirts, sometimes set on a basque and reminiscent of skirts fashionable circa 1960, but also set onto the dropped hipline tunic bodice of A line 60’s dresses.  Some of these skirted items will have a Gladiator feel to them. 

Tops that meander from poncho, refined kimono and kaftan styles to open ethereal angel sleeves, will lead through finally into batwing designs.  Large broad collars and collars gaining length add a new surprise to garments.

Dress styles for 2004 will be several inches above the knee and favoured by many age groups, including many over 50s with good figures.  The late 60’s cutaway armscye in dresses will continue to feature alongside some extended shoulder line sleeveless tops quite reminiscent of the mid 1980s.  The 1980’s retro styles will appear fresher because of the above knee shorter skirt length.  Women will enjoy showing their legs again after years of shrouding them in trousers.  Dresses of printed chiffons and drop waistlines often with shoestring camisole style straps will feature strongly.

Other popular trends for 2004 female fashion will include the seductive empire baby doll dress look and mid/late 1960’s architectural style A line shift dresses.  The latter will be bound and faced with approximately 3 centimetre contrast bands on armholes and hemlines and will stand alongside 1980’s influenced extravagant open split dolman/batwing sleeve dresses.  Ruffles in the Spanish style add frivolity.

The return of the Olympic Games helps maintain strong sports fashion influences in city wear for both sexes.  This will be more and more emphasised as the 2004 Olympic fever gains a grip on individuals globally.  Colourful fashion trainers rather than traditional running trainers will accommodate the massive shift in shoe buying habits.  Keyholes, zip inserts and satin contrast strips and bindings will continue to feature in mass casual wear emphasizing the sporty feel.

In 2004 slimmer more fitting trouser styles will offer change and give alternative body revealing competition for shorter hemlines.  Sophisticated cigarette pants with ankle zips will gain acceptance and as will sexy skinny, second skin fitting trousers as close as leggings. Slimmer pants of all descriptions will emerge, especially some cropped at the knee.

Look out too for quite wide trousers with turn ups as well as timeless sailor front button trousers which all add interest to pant styles making trousers an accessible fashion for all.

Casual urban looks continue as a mass trend in 2004.  Whilst not at the forefront of a new fashion, simple casual urban looks of military combats and hooded tops will be translated into almost any fabric.  Regardless of the fact that many fashion designers have long abandoned them will be bigger sellers than traditional tailored goods for the masses. 

Cropped trousers and narrow legged combats will be preferred over shorts and Bermudas as more suitable summer town wear.  For those unwilling to give up their boot leg trousers there will be 1970’s style innovations of fabric inserts in denim bell bottoms.  Circus looks and colours bring a fun dimension to some casual clothes.

Retro 60's tailoring will feature in jackets and coats for 2004.  Jackets will sometimes be double breasted in mid sixties style and with large almost bell like wide chopped off cape sleeves.  A feature of this style will be oversized buttons and pert neat collars sometimes broader than now.

Innovations for New Areas of Body Exposure

Bum cleavage and bum buttock exposure will be for the daring.  Keyhole ovals and circles cut out of the centre bottom backs of shorts and trouser legs to show Jo Lo style domed buttocks will be for the thrill seekers who feel no fashion bounds exist and no area of the body should be unsuitable for exposure.

Body exposure will meet fetishism as the 5 inch bum keyholes are often held together with biker bar straps and buckles. For the more timid these large keyholes will appear between waist and hip level at the side waist on fitted dresses and fitted tops.

Knitwear

Fair Isle and Tyrolean influenced pattern on knits will feature strongly in 2004 after first being seen in Autumn 2003.  Printed knits with vintage flora, graphic symbols, graffiti and ethnic motifs will stand alongside true intarsia rose knits. 

At first glance these knits sometimes appear to be decorated as appliqué, but often reveal instead braid/bead trim on the edges of the motifs giving an almost amateur, less structured, neat finish to the edges.

Bomber fur jackets from the winter ranges will translate into bombers made of textured knits that emulate fur fabrics, but in lighter summer weights or as loopy knits. 

Lacy airy knits will be made into mid 1960’s empire cape styles as summer shrugs that do the job Pashminas once did. 

2004 Fashion For Men

This site deals with female fashion and costume only, but a brief aside here for style trends for men in 2004.

The most important fashion print will be stripes and striped variations on all garments including belts, ties and edge trims, ideally suited to the cowboy designs forecast by several major designer like Gucci, Tom Ford and Cerruti.  Colours for men include terracotta, clay, wicker, soft tea, all blues and the return of greens.  

The Colour Palette for 2004 Fashion

To sum up the fashion colours for spring 2004 fashion -

Leading through to summer and autumn - the fabric palette is made of white and cream with black, burnt orange, pink tones, dusty berry reds, yellow and even more yellows, spice tones, chartreuse, lime, khaki, kingfisher, sapphire blue, powder blue greys, fruit shades and brown tones.

By winter 2004 dynamic strong jewel lustre fashion colours that are not garish will become the norm.  Many colours previously unacceptable to consumers will become more acceptable because of the way fabric weaves and new fabrications are mixed and layered together to provide a more creative high impact colour palette.

The colours for 2004 Spring/Summer fashions and accessories include white, cream, oyster white, and olive black.

Wardrobe mainstays; pastels than tone well with beige, burnt orange, burnt rust, dusty turquoise, aqua, dusty kingfisher blue, sapphire blue, carbon blue, indigo, washed out misty powder blues and stone greys, liquid lava, slate, lilac, most leaf greens, chartreuse green, lime, olive, pastel khaki.

The re-emergence of sea green and a subtle emerald, dusty pink, pink flesh, blush pink, rose beige, coral pink, shocking pink, fuchsia pink, magenta, scarlet, dusty reds, carnelian red, Chinese red, berry red clarets baby lemon, baby yellow, papaya, lemon, old gold, antique gold, apricot, ginger sand, Demerara brown, beige, wicker, washed camel, toast, tea, browns, mocha, soft and bright tones of intense fruit shades, and the colours of minerals.

Fabric Prints and Fabric Surfaces in 2004 Fashion

In 2004 fashion fabrics and fashion garments with surface design and decoration will increase.  Throughout 2004 appliqué and embroidery on clothes and fabrics will be much stronger and more extravagant, yet remain dignified.  Aged patina and marble finishes on fabrics will give subtle understated looks to natural fabrics.  Both wrinkle and smooth effect fabrics will suit these aged looks.

Tropical prints which made headway in 2003 will attract customers tired of the bland, neutral palette still embedded in the minds of some consumers from the 1990s.  Many consumers will have become used to the odd brighter more colourful purchase like pink made during 2003 and will feel more confident about purchasing stronger, newer vibrant colours and jazzier prints in 2004, particularly as the fabrications create new, more sumptuous looks.

Other prints for the 2004 summer season include those inspired by op art, art deco, wallpaper, Asian flowers, Impressionist florals, soft faded Vintage floral blooms and softly tinted romantic Chinoiserie prints.  Fabrics with broken stripes, abstract geometrics and some with textured surface dots will please those who prefer timeless designs and dislike floral effects on clothing.

Prints in black and white or black and cream will be very strong in 2004 and this scheme translates well into other mood designs such as ethnic prints on various fabrics like crêpes, seersucker, sheers, viscose georgette and satin.

Dogstooth and the larger houndstooth check, both old favourites, will add a subtle, acceptable change to the dominant black and cream looks of more strident or aggressive bold op art and art deco prints.  Likewise Chinese and Japanese takes on the black/white, black/cream theme will attract a variety of very different consumers to those who go for the former prints.

In 2004 pearlized finishes on rustic fabrics and metallic and shiny surface finishes will vie with embroidered fabric surfaces for attention.  Other finishes to fabrics for 2004 include flocking on denim and corduroy, flocking on bridal fabrics, double faced cloths, striped fabrics of solid and sheer or opaque stripes.

Puffy jaquards and jacquard denim will mean we see more textured prints in this favourite fabric.  Comfortable washed out fabrics will have more importance than over-distressed fabrics.  Cotton with linen and polyester blends will come washed and have a used finish. 

Bicycle wear will feature more prints in 2004.  Couple this with the take on the 2004 Olympics in Athens 2004 and watch the world to pick up on ancient Greek influence with sports moods and sports passions of the moment.  Armoured looks in the style of Roman Gladiator dress will translate into pleats and sectioned pieces on garments.

The Importance of Fashion Trends in Linen Looks in 2004

Linen will be the fibre still not fully exploited until Spring 2004.  Expect to see Linen in a whole range of colours and fabric weights and textures as yet unexplored. 

Linen will be combined with Lycra and many of the benefits that gave denim a boost when first combined with Lycra will soon be a familiar demand from consumers for linen.  Lycra with linen will help give a smoother fit to the form and will aid crease recovery, a factor that still deters some consumers from buying.

Deconstructionist fashion styling will suit the linens of 2004.  Linen as double faced, colour reversed linens will add the opportunity for un-faced, deconstructionist styled garments with contrast flaps of colour and fraying of this open weave fabric.  Airier more open weave gauze like semi sheer versions of the same fabrics will provide further opportunity for designers with innovative ideas.

Printed and textured linen will be snapped up and mixed with existing plain linen garments.  Linen printed with ethnic designs will also give an African or Nomadic Arabic back to roots earthy natural flavour.

Linen will be mixed with Lurex in pastel tones to create fabrics that shine ever so cleverly and delicately.  Similar, but different effects will be achieved when Polyurethane designs printed on linen give a sparkling look.  By combining different quality linens and yarns such as textured silk yarn, frosted, slightly iridescent effects will be available.

Natural, rustic distressed finishes will say linen 2004.   For those who prefer the natural effect, Linens will also come striped, burnt out, semi sheer, sharp and crisp or crumpled and soft or with a rustic texture.  Linen will also be mixed with wool to create new performance fabrics of a high calibre with improved touch, softer hand and added water repellence.

Ingeo™ - A new fibre called Ingeo™ a renewable non flammable fibre made from sugars found in vegetables such as corn will appeal to eco conscious consumers who approve of regenerated fabrics from easily renewable sources.  The fibre in its once exploited various forms, will eventually rank alongside linen, cotton, and ramie.

2004 Fashion color, Fabrics, Pattern & Textures

Colour is reborn making it the main trend to follow in 2004 and 2005.  Colour is back with a vengeance and autumn 2004 and winter and summer 2005 will see bright dramatic jewel colours vying for attention in a multitude of materials and textures. 

Colours to choose from for 2004/2005 include:-

dusty apricot, old gold, mustard yellow, honey, yellow gold, banana cream, topaze, burnt ochre, camel, stone, sepia, peach, orange, brown, bronze, chestnut, tobacco, wood tones, cocoa, chocolate,

ballet pink, bright pink, rose, sugar pink, dusky pink, hot fuchsia pink, coral,

chilli red, berry, scarlet pepper, garnet, bordeaux, burgundy, beetroot,

Green is big, very big this season, and there are so many shades to choose from that every skin tone can find a green to suit them.  Choose from lettuce, cucumber, eau de nil, avocado, asparagus, clover green, kiwi, pea green, moss green, leaf green, pistachio, olive green, parsley green, Kelly green, sage, mint, basil, bay, ivy, pine green, emerald, olive, jade, verdigris, sea green to aquamarine,

washed out blue, ice blue, pale blue, ecru, beige, blue, denim blue, sapphire

lilac, lavender, true purple, amethyst, violet, aubergine, grape - purple and lavender will abound,

grey, charcoal and of course black, cream, oyster and white, crystal white and ivory. 

But the colour story does not stop there, Metallic Colours are hot for Autumn 2004 and Winter 2005.  Metallics and more metallics will shimmer and shine on many diverse materials.

Copper leather and metallic leathers  will enhance skins.  Coloured tights in copper and other metallic tones will shimmer boldly and subtly and the choice to have this lustrous sheen on materials, from fabrics to footwear will be yours. 

You are reading an original fashion article written by Pauline Weston Thomas© at www.fashion-era.com ©

Fabric Trends 2004/2005

With fabrics there are 4 big stories.  The first is that printed pattern is back and the second is the use of fur in a fresh way as a contrast against other fabrics from chiffon to satin to suede to leather.  Fake or real, both fur types will be popular. 

The third is that glorious tweed fabrics and textured fabrics made from woven ribbons, will add even more textural interest when set against materials that are smooth like flannel.  Knobbly tweed jackets contrast with plain smooth trousers giving even more attention to the tweed. 

Finally down filled or padded items, especially functional parkas will be practical and fashionable.

Chiffon, organza, shimmering metallic lace, satin, silks and crepes will all play their part.

Pattern Trends 2004 Fashion

Pattern will be everywhere.  Paisley and geometrics will predominate.  Blended checks, speckled materials and colourful herringbones amid reversible two colour fabrics all make impact. 

Imagine all the colours from a kaleidoscopic pattern and visualize them on hosiery, dresses and knits and you have an idea of how much pattern will be about in autumn 2004/winter 2005. 

Graphic pop art prints amid floral prints, will sit happily with the neutrals as more and more individuals accept pattern and colour back into their life.  Pucci prints have been revisited and other prints that may emerge this autumn include those with a natural feel using bamboo grasses, tiny florals and grape prints. 

Texture Trends 2004/2005

Texture is set against textures with knit against ribbons or tulle against cashmere or velvet and fringe everywhere.  Ribbon is threaded through not only sweaters, but also skirts and there is a French technique available now to produce a new material as a woven ribbon fabric.

Tweed comes in many forms, from the luscious irregular 50's style Bernat Klein type yarn textures found in Linton Tweeds used to make clothes for top fashion houses like Chanel, to the regularity of herringbone, Irish speckle tweeds to Scottish houndsteeth.

Wrinkles, crimps, ruffles, fine pleating and quilting are built into otherwise plain fabric structures.

Knits Trends 2004/2005

Cosy angora sweaters with fur trims, oversized large cardigans with contrasts of texture with threads of colourful ribbon, piping trims and tipped edges, fur effect sweaters and fair isle masculine style knits sum up knitwear for autumn 2004, winter 2005.  Fur patches on elbows to knitted-in tufts of fur and long thick mohair made to appear like fur are some of the concepts that will appear in knitwear.

Knits, leathers and furs dominate for autumn 2004 and winter 2005.  But look out too for tulle skirts, laser cut leaves of leather trimming all sorts of garments and photo print and digital print fabrics.  Tweeds with raw edges that fringe.  Tweed, tweed and more tweed was favoured by Badgley Mischka, Donna Karan and Oscar de la Renta.  Many tweeds shown on the catwalk had raw fringes and the fabric could be inset with jewel rhinestones.

2004 Fashion - Furs Trends

Fur will be used everywhere with knit or fur with leather, shaved fur, fur collars, fur bolero shrugs, fur tippets along with other animal materials such as leather mixed with suede or natural cotton corduroy. 

Political correctness and a genuine dislike and boycott of the the use of animal products by some, has meant that fur has been out of fashion so long, that designers have become unused to working with it. 

However along with the new techniques discussed below and other approaches such as dyeing fur multi colours, many are approaching it with a newly found creative flair breaking old boundaries as they handle what almost seems to some like a new material because it has been out of fashion for 20 years or so.

Statistics suggest that fur sales in Britain have increased by a quarter in the past year.  The fur trade business is now worth over £177 million per annum and the average fur wearer is aged 35 today.  Fur is worn more subtly today rather than in the full length mink or beaver coats of seasons past. 

Typical usage is a simple trim on a hood or wrap scarf and the fur might just as easily be rabbit as mink.  In addition fur became fashionable again when it was true vintage fur, where it was a physical impossibility to have been in any position to protest about the trapping of the fur if it was trapped so far back in history such as in the Edwardian era. 

Techniques in Material Trends 2004/2005

Fish Scale Fur Technique

Many fur houses have now taken a fresh approach to manipulating material which has produced highly innovative ideas.  One technical innovation is Saga's fish scale technique which uses different fur types such as silver fox with mink to create a lightness of texture with pattern and almost creates a new fur.  Saga is a leader in the fur world of fashion.

Laser Work

Add laser cutting to featherweight chiffon and tulle fabrics, suedes and leathers and the versatile shapes and pattern it can cut in these contrasting materials means that unusual combinations of textures will create fabric interest only seen before in couture work. 

You are reading an original fashion article written by Pauline Weston Thomas© at www.fashion-era.com ©

Designer Influences on 2004 Fashion Trends

In New York

In the New York fashion shows for spring summer 2004 with few designers shining or showing much creative innovation or inspiration, no new talent emerged.  Fashion designer Donna Karan's DKNY shows off her traditional signature jersey mixed with bronzed and coppered leathers was aimed deliberately to satisfy department stores throughout the USA. 

Her sexy fashion line will appeal to many consumers. Tommy Hilfiger used bright candy pinks with white and orange to create fresh fashions of bomber jackets and extra wide pants, all highly suited to warm sunny days at the coast. Ralph Lauren also used strong pastels of the citrus yellow family. 

The colour combinations with lilac appeared fresh, new and young whilst maintaining the elegance and sophistication of the New England well bred woman. Marc Jacobs looked to the 1920s and 1970s for inspiration. 

His designs included fine linen pants, ethereal patterned chiffon tea dresses in pastels or muted tea tones, house on the prairie velvet skirts, cropped panne velvet or satin jackets and petticoats with ruffles. Cocktail dresses stopped well clear of the knee.

Caroline Herrera used masculine pinstriped cottons for sundresses with ribbon straps.  Her evening dresses had a lets dance feel to them.  Yellow featured prominently in tango dresses and there were some lady in red satin full length evening gowns. Proenza Schouler showed cropped jackets, swing coats, piped bustier tops and concentrated on using stripes to good effect. 

Bright yellow patent leather jackets added a zeitgeist feel. Zac Posen continued the ladylike theme with sophisticated movie star 1940s tailored jackets. 

The simple bias cut satin dresses and tops in expensive tones of blush peachy pink and oyster were as suitable for the bedroom as the prom. So too did Narciso Rodriguez, but his designs were more carefully done concentrating on highlighting bodylines with the geometry of the stripes.  He favoured soft cream and fawn with lilac and pink bursts of colour, as well as tomato red, violet and brushed gold. As usual he presented many bandage tight styles already familiar to fans.

Michael Kors also opted for striped fabrics with his sea faring inspired striped nautical dresses with cutaway armholes ideal for Italian summer holidays.  Cover ups for these sundresses were suede bombers in sharp orange. 

Halter neck Grecian style aqua blue gowns that swept the floor took the collection from casual playtime clothes to dress up and be grown up evening garb that was elegant whilst understated.

In Milan

Dolce and Gabbana produced limited edition 1930s inspired beaded and pleated floor length goddess dresses in sweet pea colours which draped and flowed with the grace once seen in the dresses of old movies. 

The detailing on them was so intricate that mass reproduction would be difficult.  But no doubt some manufacturer with ability will feel inspired enough to make an adapted version at a more affordable price for the masses. 

Floral prints blossomed on both dresses and tights. At Versace prints were back blossoming over silken chiffon fabrics. 

Bright tropical fruit colours and hot greenhouse florals were seen on everything from day suits to halter evening dresses.  Primary coloured halter tops reminiscent of Marilyn Monroe looked grown up and worth a further look. Gucci showed 35 bags. 

Their latest bag is often a must have fashion trend accessory for fashionistas.  The popularity of their bags has waxed and waned over the years, going in and out of favour. 

One bag destined as the new power bag of autumn 2003 was Gucci's horse bit style clutch bag with strap, that sent queues around a London store as customers sought the latest must have item. The latest Gucci bags feature luxury looks and bejewelled gold chains with flashes of hot colours in materials like snakeskin. 

The snakeskin theme continued through to biker jackets in gold amid over the knee skirts featuring fans of pleats over sheer chiffon worn with flesh toned legs. Glamorous cut satin cocktail dresses that were ruched or pleated or made from ribbons of silk often had clearly fetish undertones designed to make the clothes as sexy and desirable as ever.

Miuccia Prada revisited the 1950s and using bitter colours often dyeing garments using the ombre shading method she showed sundresses, shirtwaisters, pedal pushers along with crisp knife edge pleating. Jil Sander re-entered the Milan fashion scene after a 3 year absence. 

She worked with a minimal palette of white, tan, putty and mustard using two layers of fabric to create understated beautifully cut classic clothes that were not futuristic, but deemed very desirable by devotees of her look.

In London

In September London Fashion Week showed 50 fashion designer shows officially, with another 30 or so unofficial ones.  Innovative inspiration was less than in some years, but some attractive colourful clothes were in evidence. However, Ben de Lisi, a master of relaxed glamour dresses, focused on halter neck or strapless evening dresses in soft fluid jerseys and crepes de chines. 

Ideal for an Oscar ceremony, the black, aqua and coral stunning colours he used showed these styles at their best.  Picasso paintings inspired his fabric prints of hot deep pink and white or white and black fabrics swirling with geometric shapes and abstract swirls.  Asymmetry and decorative embellishment, use of crystals and ribbon belts added a fresh dimension to many styles and will easily creep into mass produced fashions to give that designer element.

Betty Jackson took her inspiration from a Capri summer scene using fantastic prints that looked freshly brushed from an artist's palette.  She chose to use frothy chiffon in tiers for dresses trimmed with black crossway trim.  The 50's silhouette was strongly defined and all were sharply contrasted with black.  The use of shades of green was a forward looking feature of her collection which mixed and contrasted in a sophisticated, wearable way. 

Feminine looks with ruffles on skirts and dresses combined with jackets and wispy chiffon corsages, hinted at both aggressive and feminine tones in a wide range of ensembles. Jasper Conran based his latest collection on an African theme and produced clothes for grown ups. 

He showed lots of geometric patterned and batik printed dresses, likely to be hugely popular this summer, as they fit in with the rustic ethnic themes found in textiles generally.

Ronit Zilkha also showed an African selection in raw earth colours and natural accessories using cane and straw.  Other ideas included an alpine inspired theme with pretty Tyrolean Heidi style cardigans and peasant style trims.  A more exotic theme had a Mardi Gras feel with bright layered chiffons made into pretty appealing envy making dresses with fluttering edges and thigh high splits. 

Perfect for dressed up holiday moments. Clements Ribeiro began his show with a nautical theme showing striped cashmere knitwear trimmed with anchor style motifs and rope belts.  He used traditional colour mixes like red and white as well as newer combinations of stripes in softer pastels enlivened with chocolate or orange. 

Peasant dresses in light pink floral prints and trimmed with black ribbons or white piping made for feminine comfortable clothes that looked fresh and modern made to suit hazy summer days. Elspeth Gibson showed pretty flirty feminine close fitting dresses, sometimes flapper style and unstructured loose, delicately embroidered jackets and coats.

She looked to the past for inspiration yet managed to combine frayed edge techniques and raw edges in garments, making them very much of the present.  One interesting point was her use of evening length gloves worn as accessories and a return of brooches and bows as features.

In Paris

Paris couture continues to be about selling the dream to the masses ultimately through more affordable accessories, perfume, cosmetics, lingerie, scarves, jewellery and optical products, rather than actual clothing.  Ideas were sparse in Paris in autumn 2003 and concentrated far too much on the next style of bag, which many more women can afford compared to the dress. 

This made for boring fashion shows from a city that thinks of itself as the fashion capitol of the world.

This hold is dwindling as the global nature of current methods of communication changes outlooks.  Recent hints from the house of Chanel suggest that since 50% of its couture customer base is from the USA, the house  is considering showing in New York in the near future. 

This will appeal to the customers that are reluctant to travel to Europe just for a fashion show, when the fashion show could travel to them.  Even so the couture aspect is unlikely to go into profit, but the prestige gained from showing on USA soil will enhance the cachet of Chanel and all the offshoot items.

The problem appears to be in the fact that some of the couture houses now direct their designs with selling on the high street rather than creating new innovative garments that may or may not work or form the gem of a starting pint for a new look.  Feminine and desirable chiffon dresses from Julien MacDonald and Stella McCartney were attractive, but were nothing new style wise.

Karl Lagerfeld at Chanel continued to produce tasteful superbly cut, perfect couture suits, that women from 18 to 80 adored.  Tailoring is fundamental to good couture and Lagerfeld is the current master of it making refinement of his art a luxury statement.

John Galliano at Christian Dior made a sexy modern young couture collection where Latino inspired flamenco flounces were worn with sweat tops and were in complete contrast to the formal couture evident in Lagerfeld's elegant designs. 

His raunchy style of underwear as outerwear, whilst sexy, is not very practical as inspiration for an everyday look and although modern and witty is less appealing than when new and shocking. Jean Paul Gaultier put catwalk models into all in one, skintight figure hugging bodysuits with equally close hugging head helmets.  The suits were cut with couture perfection to fit each model perfectly like a second skin and were accessorized with fur pieces. 

This might sound innovative, but Vivienne Westwood did her fig leaf collection along this line years ago.  His classic Grecian evening dresses in hot colours of orange and purple were fabulous in the couture sense. Tom Ford at Yves St Laurent delivered his last show with satin hip belted jackets, variations on the traditional YSL tuxedo and used cream, white and silver grey to create romantic evening wear.

Some Final Reminders for Updating Looks What Fashion Items Should You Discard or Keep? If you are still wearing that look of little velvet edge trimmed cardigans and matching knee length jacket coats as trouser suits, reassess how passé and somewhat 90s the look has become. 

Think twice about buying cargo pants or combats - most designers have ditched them, yet still favour jeans.  If you must still buy those available on the high street, look for the fresher newer twists that many have. Never confuse dress down with don't care when dressing for work, styles move on and so does casual dress along with what is, or is not acceptable in business situations.

If you buy only 5 items in the sales this winter whilst waiting for warmer days to wear spring and summer fashions, go for classics that you can wear all through 2004. Invest in a pair of the sexiest, latest hip hugging denim jeans such as Rogans, but which you can wear now come rain or shine. 

Or find your own perfect jeans or black trousers.  We all come in so many shapes and sizes with either big thighs or slender thighs that seeking out the perfect pair of personal jeans or trousers is time well spent. Build up some accessories and get a real or mock croc hard framed hand bag like grandma loved or invest in real or mock croc, alligator or snakeskin shoes. 

Russell and Bromley do up to date high street versions of these that are far more affordable than designer versions.  Seek out a beautifully cut pencil skirt and team it with a fine polo roll neck or V cashmere top and a pair of knee high boots under the coat you bought in autumn 2003.

If you didn't get a classic 60's inspired coat then, look around for the perfect classic trench coat - opt for a Burberry if you can afford it, otherwise scour the shops for one with an edge.  Ring the changes by alternating the boots for opaque or fancy tights or coloured suede or croc style shoes. 

Add interesting gloves such as those from Gap with inspired contrast leather finger detailing or coloured suede ones from Miss Selfridge at £12. A few carefully chosen buys like these gleaned from the winter sales will make classic, but worthwhile additions to your wardrobe for 2004 without buying into last year's passing fads as you observe what you really want in your perfect 2004 wardrobe.  Browse the jewellery counters for attractive chandelier style earrings.

Remember upscale designer accessories or lookalikes are a less costly way to buy into a label or trend than clothes.  They are often instantly recognisable as having a now wow factor to those in the know and can offer an instant updating fashion fix to a seasonless outfit. Take a few hours to reassess your clothes and clear away all items that look past their best.  Chiffon will be everywhere this year so save every chiffon item you have. 

Next clear out all items that don't fit you, never fitted you, you hate, you put back in the wardrobe every time you thought to put it on and any which look dull, dowdy, pre millennium or frankly vulgar exposing too much fake tan and should have stayed in the store.

Ditch the fake tan; you will laugh at how tacky it looks next year in photographs. You really do know exactly what I mean, but try not to kid yourself that you will slim into an item or grow into it!  If it has languished in your wardrobe since last winter's sales, chances are it will still be there unworn in January 2005.

Finally make a note of the colours and fabrics to look out for and detailed above in these articles. Carry this with you and keep it as a checklist to work around the fine details.  To conclude, 2004 will see a major and welcome return to colour and pattern with plenty of chiffon and textured fabrics.

The looks you choose will be looks that suit you.  No two of us will choose to follow the same fashions, but these are some of the trends that may attract or inspire you when shopping. Happy shopping on or offline.

Designer Trends From Milan, Paris, New York and London Affecting Fashion for Fall 2004 & Winter 2005

Milan Shows

Earlier this year in spring 2004 in terms of styling and pizzazz, the Milan fashion shows exhibiting for autumn/winter 2004 were as confident as ever, featuring the common theme of vintage, all with layering, leather and fur.  The Milan shows used the best of vintage 20^th century styles for inspiration. 

Fur trimmed just about everything.  Fake fur, now fashionably called faux fur and real fur will be everywhere this autumn.  Look out too for similarities in shops to the shaved fur capes that hit the catwalks, fur gilets, fur stoles and fur trapper hats.  Funnel necks on swing jackets will have a new freshness.

Milanese footwear was elevated with stack, wedge, clumpy and wooden heels. Toes were round or oval and the two tone shoe is sure to a be hit, because even though it is an oft repeated revival, it looked new and now.

Skirt lengths in Milan mostly showed a modest hemline covering the knee or at mid calf or longer. Skirts that covered the knees were also a trend at the New York shows.  Perhaps some of the various box pleated skirts some houses have been putting on the catwalks might best be avoided.

Miuccia Prada

Miuccia Prada continued her 1950's revival and she designed square necked dresses and pert grey flannel suits perfect for those who aspire to be ladylike. 

Using contemporary touches such as the use of computer generated digitally distorted old master landscape or tapestry style prints her Miu Miu range harked back to the romantic New Look with sweeping skirts and evidence of cutting in tune with both the late greats, Ossie Clark and Jean Muir. 

Her military inspiration from historical costuming with a modern twist that used both velvet and brocade to make swaggering splendid coats all captured the culture of a long ago European heritage. Her coats featured jewel encrusted collars and belts, also made in tweed and checks.  Interesting use was made of nylon in ski jackets covered in digital prints.

Prada also favoured alligator and snakeskin stilettos, so right now these would be a great summer sale fashion purchases that will remain fashionable for 2005. 

Other items to find in the sales are brooches.  Prada used them to great effect as trims particularly on cashmere knits and wherever else she fancied.  Brooches will be everywhere this winter, but worn not only on a lapel, but also on bags, the pockets of jeans and even beanie hats.  Brooches will replace the fake silk organza flower corsage.

On the catwalk there were also gorgeous circle skirts that vied with pencil straight skirts and exceptionally feminine tailored garments from costume suits to sexy coats.  The fitted and shaped waist styling really suits hour glass figures and can only be welcomed by women who are not stick thin and have voluptuous curves to show.

Prada is the best place to look for inspiration for this fifties styling, taking many of the ideas you find there with you to the high street where fast JIT (just in time) fashion companies like Zara and those mentioned above, interpret new and fresh ideas so fast, that designers complain their ideas are pirated and in other suppliers shops, before they are showcased in the original designer's ready to wear outlet.

Dolce and Gabbana

Dolce&Gabbana looked to the 20th century for ideas from every decade.  In particular the 1970s produced translatable ideas and they wove their magic to give their very own D & G touch to Yves St. Laurent 70's inspired styled suits. 

D & G  full length evening dresses for autumn winter 2004/5 were made for goddesses from another planet with their futuristic lustrous sparkling copper and bronze metallic fabrics and semi opaque sexy inset fabric panels that emphasised body contours.

Dolce Gabbana Vintage is the new buzz phrase and enables designers to remake past winners their customers adore by calling them vintage, even if the style is only a few years old.  Designers have always turned to fashion history for inspiration and this show proved that La Belle Époque  beading and lace sat happily with 1930s tea dresses and more contemporary 60s inspired T tops and jeans.

Their long coat to lust after, had a half belt at the back making it sensible and wearable with a great fashion aspect.

Armani

Armani also favoured the woman of tremendous curves reminiscent of the clothes of Edwardian beauties. 

Flared skirts with an organic feel that swept like an opening bell flower form, just like the art nouveau styling of La Belle Époque of 1900, vied with fluid trousers and fluted coats all emphasising a nipped in waist.  Waffle textured jackets, cut velvet gowns and rich velvets added a feeling of sumptuousness.

Rifat Ozbek

Rifat Ozbek was back after an absence of a few years.  Ozbek used braids to detail the hemlines of skirts and the edges of jackets, infusing them with both colour and fashion savvy aplomb. 

His use of polychromatic tassels was a nice touch on scarves and cuffs and was Tibetan and Ottoman empire influenced.  Shops that usually translate similar themes well, include Monsoon.

Look out for similar ideas in the shops where tipping on knits in particular will be popular. Tipping is an edge finish of about half to a centimetre of contrast colour.  Popular schemes include black and cream, red and black, flesh pink and cream etc. 

Roberto Cavalli

Roberto Cavalli used crystal, silver and gold lustre to enhance wearable coloured printed paisley fabrics in dirty plums, sage, sharp green and navy.

Paris Shows

Alexander McQueen

Alexander McQueen went futuristic with a sci-fi like setting for models that looked like aliens.  He used draped silk jersey to make dresses that draped from silver chokers.  Leather was used to encrust dresses of chiffon.  Fur pony skins were shaved to become even flatter to make coats. 

Mc Queen has also forecast that feather shrugs in silver black or coral worn over glamorous dresses will be big next year

Karl Lagerfeld

Karl Lagerfeld took a very unisex approach to many of the clothes he designed for the House of Chanel.  Borrowing from the boys for daywear he focused on headwear such as trilby hats, caps and drainpipe jeans in pinstripe materials.

The colours were often pastels and he did not neglect classic Chanel styling and there was usual mix of cardigan suits, but this time teamed with flat boots.  Patriotic colours of red, navy and white as well as pastel tweeds were striking.  The tweed cardigan suit is classic Chanel and Lagerfeld knows just how to add a contemporary twist.

The high street has taken this look to heart and chances are you have much better chance of buying the high street version than even a ready to wear Chanel version at almost £3000. 

Just about every collection in the stores today has a tweedy jacket inspired by Lagerfeld and at a tenth or even thirtieth or less of the Chanel boutique price you can opt for this high fashion look and wear it with matching or contrast trousers or skirts, or for a more dress down look just add your favourite jeans and a string of pearls, maybe pastel coloured pearls.

Christian Lacroix

Christian Lacroix is one of the right designers for now with his passion for colour, pattern and jewel encrusted garments.  He showed  broderie anglaise trimmed tiered skirts with masculine cut trench coats, jackets that were long and straight over tweed culottes and eastern, oriental inspired yellow and purple patchwork prints on jackets.

His use of ribbon woven through long cardigans is likely to be taken up by the high street fashion stores who are currently feeding off deconstructionist and textural techniques. 

His use of lace in fine black lace shirt dresses with gold mancheron shoulder detailing was another wave to the return of the emphasised shoulder.  Coloured tights abounded and are a real 1980s revival touch.

John Galliano

John Galliano brought geisha girl and rockabilly to his collection.  He used vivid shocking pink dyed furs atop huge enveloping coats.  The look was unexpected and jarred, but at the same time captured street culture and was innovative and original.  The catwalk is where Galliano shows his fantasy vision.

Valentino

Valentino produced the most beautiful evening wear of columnar dresses of lace or chiffon layers and some in the primary colour red with huge fabric roses at the sides that were show stopping.  His fur bomber jackets were luscious, modern and street savvy.

New York Shows

New York began by turning to the 1970s for inspiration with groomed pussy bow collar looks, popular in the late seventies for the office look of today and tomorrow. 

Others turned to 1950's fashion favourites and used luxury tweeds including herringbones, wools and ribbon enhanced polychromatic glittering tweeds, to produce fur trimmed suits and coats tailored to the body.  Shrugs and ponchos, fringing and belted coats sum up New York's passion for statement outer wear for fall.

The effect gave clothes the aura of being effortlessly chic, feminine and ladylike.  They skimmed and tightly hugged the body with their narrow cut silhouettes, peplums and wider, puffed shoulders.  All this set amid pin tucked and frilly blouses with pie crust collars. 

Proenza Schouler and Marc Jacobs did this best.  Jacobs made prim look sexy in the 70's retro looks that Jacobs does so well.

New York fashion shows styled clothes to be layered from bustier to top jacket.  Drainpipe jeans may set an autumn look already half there with turned up cropped drainpipes already a high fashion sale this summer. 

Kaftan tops, high waistlines, ponchos, capes, fedora hats, wide man styled trousers and jeans and trousers pushed into boots were all New York styles likely to become fashion favoured trends this autumn.  Combinations of colours continue from those of the summer with flesh tone peach, purple, rich brown, greens and blues still high on the list.

Look out for high throat hugging necklines as opposed to cleavage exposure, high waistlines, ponchos, capes and fabrics of tweed, chiffon and paisley. 

Mid calf or longer skirts even to ankle was the norm.  Occasion dressing was evident.  The return of the brooch for fastening cardigan knits and adorning a wide range of wardrobe items brings a return to decoration and dressing up with costume jewels.  The little green dress may soon eclipse the LBD as next season's must have!

Caroline Herrera

Caroline Herrera sought inspiration from the ski slopes.  She mixed pinstriped pants or long skirts with patterned knitwear or sweaters consisting of fur strips or ermine.  Her Audrey Hepburn inspired boat neck black shift dress was a subtle look that women often search for, but cannot find in the shops.

Marc Jacobs

Marc Jacobs sent out primly dressed secretarial styled models with fussy Miss Moneypenny style pussy bow blouses with neat high waisted elegant pencil skirts, with not a low rise waistline in sight. The look was schoolmarm prissy, but sexy and was every grown up boy's fantasy of a saucy school mistress or strict female dominant leader like Margaret Thatcher. 

With his closely fitting skinny cardigans, tweed suits for day and glittering dresses for night where modest aspects reigned supreme, Jacobs's racy style meant that the groomed and glamorous look was back for flirting rather than over obvious display of flesh.  He used strong colours like emerald green and deepest jade that seemed new in their revival.

Michael Kors

Michael Kors gave a show that the average person could copy as their own look.  Models sashayed the catwalk in their jeans, textural cable knit sweaters and big fur bags.  Elements of the look have been seen before, but people like it and find it easy to follow as their own fashion. 

The fur bags are likely to be a huge hit as fur will be so fashionable this coming season.  Whilst wearing fur can make you look bulky, even the fattest woman can get away with a fur bag and feel she has her finger on the pulse.

Camel and lilac were a perfect foil for softly faded jeans.

Roland Mouret

Roland Mouret also toyed with little black dresses that softly draped with bloused styling and jewelled necklines that were like armour breast plates.

Anna Sui

Anna Sui made a romantic pretty collection that women who yearn for feminine styling adore in her fashion garments.  The collection included brightly dyed fox fur boleros, neat cardigans, or ribbon decorated sweaters worn with flowered skirts teamed with dainty accessories such as her heart shaped bag.

Narciso Rodriguez

Rodriguez is a Cuban American and brings just a touch of Hispanic exotica to all his designs.  Colourful piping tipped the edges of flesh toned dresses.

Oscar de la Renta

The design house of de la Renta opted for tweed suits with raw fringes.

Proenza Schouler

Proenza Schouler produced tailored garments that showed refinement and elegance in their graceful design.  Chic is a word that easily describes their work.

Betsy Johnson

Betsy Johnson highlighted some retro 80s styling with tomahawk hairstyles and over the knee thigh boots.

Ralph Lauren

The house of Ralph Lauren showed a spare colour palette concentrating mainly on black, but uplifted some items with touches of camel or red.  Lauren showed a regard for all things of the American south west using touches of Navajo imagery in earrings, cuffs and belts.

Zac Posen

Zac Posen showed striped lame that shimmered dramatically on the catwalk.

Matthew Williamson

Matthew Williamson used Aztec style linear graphic prints to make up Kaftan dresses and chiffon baby doll empire gowns.  Tweed with glitter thread made wonderful multi coloured jackets.

London Fashion Week

With about 40 fashion shows London Fashion Week attracted only a small number of about 2000 buyers and journalists compared to Paris which attracted 10,000 visitors.  But London can still set trends and it's clear that cleavage is out of favour with London designers too as more severe modest clothes were introduced.  Waists are back in fashion and the belted coat will characterize this year's styles from last years.

Fur tippets are likely to be all the rage by November and December as not only are they a 200 year old revived fashion item rarely seen, but they are also practical in chilly windy countries in winter.  The fur might be any type from fake to sheepskin, but they will be around and being small and less costly than a coat or jacket can help instantly update looks.  Accessories like chain mail scarves and gaiters add new touches to old looks.

With chill ever on the mind British designers covered up legs in interesting opaque tights.  Some tights will have a metallic sheen, with copper being fashionable colour for them.

Layering will also define looks as fur and sheepskin and faux jackets help keep the chill off skimpy slip dresses for evening.  Slip dresses have now been around for about 10 years but women still seem to love them.

Julian Macdonald

Julian Macdonald was master of a sophisticated show that had mink bomber jackets, leather seamed skirts and snakeskin pants worn with fox fur shrugs.

Jasper Conran

Jasper Conran's designs were strict and severe and showed women as the dominant sex through their dress.  The Equestrian look popped up here too with his flesh hugging breeches pushed into leather boots.  Like New York Conran revived the cloak in the style of floor sweeping Lord of the Rings traditional sweeping versions. 

Sir Paul Smith

Sir Paul Smith has a ready made clientele world wide and is especially well liked in Japan.  His catwalk show theme was nautical and used navy, red and white focusing on skinny trousers, cropped tops. It was predictable and quite English in the sense of county style.

There were also elements of sharp tailoring, accessorised with traditional silk foulard snaffle scarves, cashmere striped sweaters and plenty of bling with gilt accessories.

2004 Fashion Accessories 

Bags

Textured leathers will be the accessory fashion trend statement of 2004.  Crocodile, lizard and alligator super deluxe leathers and effect materials will feature strongly on both bags and shoes. 

Shoes, bags and garments from treated leathers, unusually made from salmon skins will become status symbols.  Texture will continue through to cowhide bags, Macramé hand and shoulder bags and mixed macramé with faceted bead bags of the late 60’s style will add variety.

Already visible in 2003, by 2004 coloured fashion handbags will become usual again as bags of all colours from mauves to chartreuse are used to provide chic statement looks to a more casually dressed consumer.  Many people will focus on purchasing bags in the way they once did with more dressy clothes, developing a bag wardrobe for all occasions as this can be an instantly obvious status or brand symbol.

Mobile phones will merge into the outer construction of bags.  A much neglected consumer need will be fulfilled by innovative accessory companies that at long last produce bags with an outside pocket specifically for easy access to mobile phones. These mobile pockets will be positioned stylishly somewhere on the outside of the bag or handle for instant access.

Paying homage to vintage fashion, 2004 will see even more embellishment on fashion bags than in recent years.  Bags will be embellished with butterflies, edelweiss, feathers, motor bike straps, stabbed with decorative applied brooches and finished with chunky short shoulder chain straps.

Evening bags of gold, silver or gunmetal kid will be stitched over in a patchwork of metallic woven braids.  The braids will have Tyrolean, Ikat or Indian traditional designs that have roses or geometric mirror image kaleidoscopic elements

Silk foulard, Pucci style pattern print reticule style handbags for evening with bead short shoulder straps and finished at the extremes with bead tassels will compliment vintage looks.

Round hard case like vanity bags decorated in spots, stripes and in strong primary and secondary solid colours that make the item part of the outfit will also appear as a bucket bag version.

Decorative wardrobe bags will emerge in 2004.  

An interesting aspect of bags for 2004 will be decorative wardrobe bags that double as furnishing accessories and can be used for both travel and storage.  These will be used by consumers to store favourite special garments, footwear and accessories.  Such bags will be displayed like clothes on hangers in stores.

Other Accessories

Gloves

Gloves will be an important accessory and fascinate a whole generation unfamiliar with wearing them.  1960’s keyhole inspired gloves in light fabrics make girly summer wear as do button and strap trimmed gloves in pastel leathers and lace fabrics.  Longer length gloves, covered with cuff bracelets in the mode of Breakfast at Tiffany style will have a place worn with three quarter or elbow length sleeves.

Umbrellas

For the first time in years umbrellas of 2004 become an interesting accessory again with glorious printed patterns.

Scarves

Cartoon print and circus print head squares in silk with a hand painted linear look to the designs make an appearance.   The head square gains favour again as the more dated elongated scarves of recent years begin to look tired.

Shoes

Shoes of every hue will once again adorn the shoe racks of 2004.  Every woman will want to make simple jeans look special with desirable shoes.

Spiky slingbacks and stiletto shoes and boots with elongated pointed or chisel toed front uppers will be made for showing off in rather than walking far.  In contrast round toed flats will be adorned with pompoms, rosebud trims, grosgrain bows and Tyrolean ribbons.  Materials like silver kid and alligator with velvet or crushed velvet linings add luxury touches to grown up footwear.

Boots with biker straps will feature heavily throughout 2004.  Boots with a line of repeating bondage biker bar straps with buckles, eyelet lacing or a line of contrast covered buttons will adorn many legs.  On the practical side flat biker boots and moon boots will be a modern version of Courrèges style boots to wear with shorter dresses.

Tasteful, well designed patchwork leather boots that follow a pattern such as zig zags rather than random patches will allow consumers to buy boots with elements of rarer materials.

Jewellery

Natural looking ethnic inspired jewellery will often complement the rustic textures of cotton and linen washed fabrics prevalent throughout 2004. 

Ethnic prints on linen will be complemented by earthy ethnic jewellery showing evidence of Africa, the Saharan Desert, Nepal and South Western silver.  Mediterranean style chunky necklaces of the sort often seen in shops like those found in Valldemosa in Mallorca will mix well with the natural fabrics look giving consumers a chic well groomed thought out finish.

Chandelier style earrings of every description say 2004 for both day and night.  Often with a Vintage/antique look in every stone from pearl to turquoise to Venetian glass these chandelier style earrings will reach new lengths.  Black enamel mixed with diamante in art deco chandelier styles will look good with the op art inspired prints.

Tribal art will move off the body into jewellery designs.  Earrings, necklaces, dog collars and pendants made in the designs of ethnic and spiky tribal art tattoos will feature black diamond pavé.  Some designs will be based on reptiles like miniature lizards.

Over sized pendants say 2004.  Very large pendants will look good with sixties inspired dresses and appeal to all age groups.  Any motif can be made into a pendant.  The main feature will be that they are quite large and bold in contour from 2 to 3 inches or so.

Collarettes of very innovative modern designs as well as those in the Bulgari choker style, contrast with motor bike strap bondage dog collars.

Earthy looks for 2004 abound as satin, suede, leather and rustic beads are all contrasted.  Satinised yarns will help create knotted neck accessories in dog collar styles. Sometimes they will be made with leather suede thong and mixed in with earthy ethnic beads that look heavy and dense.

Watch trends of 2004 seen in high fashion magazines, will quickly be translated by mass market watch manufacturers as consumers seek a wardrobe of watches in the same way that consumers desire a wardrobe of jeans or shoes for different occasions. Moiré and mother of pearl pastel watch faces in colours like pink and aqua and agate will also capture an iridescent feel.  Bolder watch faces with diamante decoration and Gucci style bangle watches will become more available as consumers seek imitation at affordable prices.

Deep cuff bracelets worn with three quarter and bracelet length seven eight sleeves continue to feature all through 2004.  Very wide cuff bracelets about 3 inches deep made from pearls, gemstones or Venetian glass using the colours of amethyst, pink or yellow stones, amber and green hues will be a smart fashion accessory that is easy for any age to wear and feel fashionable.  Black onyx bracelets will complement many of the black and cream looks.

Soon large oversized knuckle duster rings, with strong 60’s and 70’s influence, will fascinate a generation unfamiliar with them.

In Estate Style precious stone jewellery stardust, moon dust and satin finishes on silver and gold jewellery will complement the delicate sparkling new linen fabric finishes.  Stardust, moon dust and satin finishes on silver give silver a boost making it appear more expensive looking.

Hair slides in these satin and stardust finishes will become popular as will life size fake flowers made from coloured leathers and added to hairpins.  The leather flowers may also be used as brooch decoration or attached to pearl necklaces or pearl belts to make innovative fashion statements.

In 2004 costume jewellery will go wild, picking up on pearl and diamante and coloured stone large brooch trends from the 50s and 80s.  Wearing costume jewellery will be made easier by the promise of belts made from plaited crystal or diamante strands combined with motorbike belt and buckle elements that marry rock with glamour.

Good Colors for Autumn Winter Fashion Trends 2004 and 2005

So this autumn will see the welcome return of jewel colours.  Some are around already, but for every bold strong colour currently in favour there will always be a mass retailer who knows that many consumers will be unwilling to purchase loud colours and so have no difficulty ensuring that a range of safe neutrals is always at hand. 

Labels like Hobbs, Max Mara, Karen Millen, Jasper Conran and Phase Eight have plenty of safe colour schemes.

If you haven't yet bought into green, scour the stores for a few green items.  Green is back in fashion and will be seen even more this autumn and winter.  Pick something that will tone with the next big colour the jewel tone of emerald green.  Sage green, chartreuse and olive will still be good green tones for autumn, and as they are summer 2004 colours you are sure to find some of it in the summer 2004 sales.

Reminders for Updating Looks

What Do You Need Now for Autumn 2004 Winter 2005?

Only you can really know what you personally need to suit your lifestyle.  But as usual and as discussed in my web pages how to find your style, check out and clear out your wardrobe and put it into apple pie colour order this week.  Make a note of the new colours and see how they would team with existing items you already have.  What glaring gaps do you see? 

Start at the top with your hairstyle or headwear and move down the body so that you include in your thinking anything from a new haircut to a fresh look at hosiery to the newest lines in footwear.

If you are still wearing black and more black, reassess how much colour is around you and how 90s the 'I only wear black or black' look has become.  Black will always be a great choice to have in your wardrobe, but it is no longer the only choice. 

If you cannot bear to move totally away from it, add some strong jewel colours as tops or wear trousers with luscious textured tweed jackets as colour and texture burst contrasts.  If even that is too much for you, look to the near neutral tones mentioned above like ice blue, ecru, powder pink and cream to lighten the look whilst keeping it subdued.

Casual dress will become less casual as grooming returns.  If you want to live in sweat pants and sportswear that is up to you, but I can guarantee that in 10 years time you will have no fond memories of those slouchy jogging pants in the same way you might a bias slip dress that made you feel very special.

Revamp your image by taking control with a new hairstyle and be ruthless about discarding to a charity shop what you never wear and which would look hopelessly passé if you did.

If you buy only a few items in the sales this summer whilst waiting for cooler days to wear autumnal styles, go for classics that you can wear into 2005. 

The summer advice was to invest in a pair of the sexiest, latest hip hugging denim jeans such as Rogans.  That advice is still good for autumn 2004. 

Whatever the brand you prefer, look for the latest trouser styles soon arriving in the shops.  Skinny drainpipe jeans and trousers will soon be the next pants style to adopt, so think carefully when making future new trouser purchases.

So you may like to look for a pair that is skinny tight on the legs if you want them to move into 2005.  However think twice if you have thunder thighs.  Note well that low rise is on the wane.  Note any feature on the wane and avoid it as a new purchase.

Get a great tweed shaped short just below waist jacket with a bit of self fringing evident on the collar edges or cuffs and that can be mixed and matched with jeans, trousers or other contrasting plain fabric bottoms.  New jacket styles to come, will by next year be longer in the front than the back.

Avoid buying into last year's passing fads as you observe what you really want in your perfect autumn closet.  Browse the jewellery counters for attractive accessories.  Checkout the bags and handbags and any new ways of wearing them.  Note the volume of metal hardware on bags and opt for some with hardware styling.

Finally make a note of the colours and fabrics to look out for and detailed in these web page articles.  Carry this with you and keep it as a checklist to work around the fine details. 

You are reading an original fashion article written by Pauline Weston Thomas at www.fashion-era.com ©

This autumn 2004/winter 2005 will see even more colour and pattern with plenty of textured fabrics, fur and knits.  There are many, many looks for you, a very special individual to choose from.  Don't be lazy - go shopping knowing you will need to try on many garments to buy just a few that feel like you were born wearing them. 

I hope I have made your task easier in these 4 autumn 2004 and winter 2005 general fashion trend pages by helping you absorb what is likely to be a fashion force for autumn 2004 and winter 2005.  Think colour and texture.  Think groomed and graceful.

Colours Spring Summer 2005

When planning ahead bear in mind these colours for spring/summer 2005.

Colours for spring summer 2005 include rich jewel tones and variations on these tones below.  There is a trend to name colours after foods, especially spices, vegetables or fruits of the forest.  This makes it easy for individuals globally to assess what a colour trend truly might be like without resorting to expensive shade cards. 

Anyone who has eaten a green olive knows exactly what that colour is like.  With vastly changing eating habits most of us really do know the colour of saffron or a cranberry or a mango when it is used as a description.  Standard colours like navy blue stay the same.  But variations do exist in the more exotic tones.  Is apricot really much different than mango. Does mango mean the flesh or the skin? 

For spring and summer 2005 choose from this palette below. Notice how nicely it leads on from autumn winter 2004/05 colours.

lemon, hot yellow, golden saffron, sultana, mango, carrot, pumpkin, tangerine, ginger, spice, cinnamon, date, toast,

jade, lichen, lime, mint, apple green,

mauve, light purple, lilac, lavender, purple and more purple,

periwinkle blue, cloud blue, teal, turquoise, aquamarine, crystal white, electric blue, sky blue, grey, slate,

coral, pink, shell pink, cerise pink, hot pink, raspberry, chilli red, claret, ruby red, burnt paprika,

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Fashions to Drop

French manicures.  Now so overdone, overlong and very passé.

Fake tans. If you have to go fake, go very subtle fake and make it just a summer fashion.  Avoid the mahogany wood or man tan look especially in autumn/winter. You can dilute your fake tan by opting for lighter toned fakes or adding moisturiser to make it go further.

Kiss goodbye to velour tracksuits.  So passé......

Shredding has been done to death in the name of deconstructionist fashion and you may wish to choose very carefully when thinking of buying a garment that is somewhat raw in finish. 

Whilst I love the creativity shown in some of these crinkled wrinkled and shredded items and have recently bought two new tweedy knobbly jackets with fringing, I know I'm not alone in being very tired of some of these looks where raw edges combine with cheap nylon knit fabrics in random dyed materials are meant to indicate a fashion edge, but instead in some cases have begun to indicate very poorly finished clothes, unsatisfactory dyeing and roughly applied appliqué, all on occasion coming over as an excuse for shoddy workmanship.

Try to discriminate between the edgy deconstructionist aspects in garments and the frankly badly manufactured ones. Whilst many do not want items to last ad infinitum, if you do want a classic item to last look for quality stitching and about 12 to 14 stitches to the inch.

Retro and Vintage Items to Revive

If you have a 1960s cape like elbow sleeve mink jacket hiding away, or have an aunt or mother or even grandmother who has one or can pick one up in a thrift shop, get ready to don it this winter.

Fashion history shows that such empire above waist mink jackets were all the rage worn with baby doll empire line evening gowns in the late fifties to sixties.  Short cropped, short sleeved mink or fur jackets will be a 2004/5 fashion when worn with narrow trousers that seem sprayed on drainpipe style. 

Tweed, tulle and chiffon will continue to show the textural variations we have become familiar with in recent times.

You may also consider looking out for 1930s inspired dresses in salmon coral pink, black or silver. Worn with a feather shrug you will ooze elegance and style.  High Vivienne Westwood style platform shoes will be winners and become all the rage, as footwear literally reaches new heights. 

You are reading an original fashion article written by Pauline Weston Thomas© at www.fashion-era.com ©

Morphing

Morphing is fashionable with designers.  They like to show new ways of wearing garments whether it be a fashion to roll up sleeves or trouser legs, when in practical terms it would be just as simple to make the jacket with shorter sleeves or the trousers cropped from the start. 

Morphing is the process of transforming one image into another.  Most have us have been doing it for year without knowing when we slung a sweater around our hips or shoulders.  Morphing is a modern fashion trend that allows the wearer to use a garment in more than one way.  A jacket or cape moved from its original use and buttoned on the hips becomes a skirt, a scarf become a belt, a sarong a halter top.

Yesterday whilst out perusing the sales (yes again) I saw a man who at first glance appeared to be wearing some kind of kilt or skirt. When I moved ahead of him I noticed he was not wearing a kilt, but a very bold red tartan shirt, but the sleeves were tied at the front waist over shorts as one ties sweaters sometimes. The shirt was long because he was a big man and so it had plenty of shirt tail length. 

It was a chill summer day, so maybe his shorts were a bit optimistic as he set out.  Somehow though I think it was a deliberate fashion act to show off his rather nice tanned muscular pins!

Online Shopping for Brands

Some fashion problems have been solved for those who have felt bereft and hunted for name brands and been unable to access them easily.  Gucci recently launched a shopping website and soon you will be able to get those latest and very desirable items directly from gucci.com by adding your name to a waiting list for the hottest items in town.

So if you need jewelled heels or other desirable item get that mouse moving and do some internet shopping.

If you need sportswear or just replacement shopping of undies use the internet.  Figleaves are highly reliable internet fashion lingerie sellers as are Marks and Spencer.  Try Marks too for high performance sportswear for fitness, golf, outdoor sports and running all available to buy with ease online.

Be selective and you really will find the latest high street styles at prices you can afford.

Happy shopping on or offline.

You can read more about general image planning in these two existing web pages in the image and wardrobe planning section.

You are reading an original fashion article written by Pauline Weston Thomas© at www.fashion-era.com ©