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 Flat Pattern Drafting

Hand Drafting A Skirt Block Page 14

Making a Toile - Part 11

By Pauline Weston Thomas for Fashion-Era.com

 

Flat Pattern Drafting - Making a Toile

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Making a Muslin Toile

Part 11 - The Toile

Next you will need to make a toile in muslin, calico, cotton or even old sheeting to check the fit of the block. The block without seam allowances which is how it is always used to make adaptations is called NET BLOCK.

First make a paper pattern with SEAM ALLOWANCES!

Take the 2 basic block patterns and redraw/trace them onto fresh paper.  Now add a side seam allowance down both sides of 1.5 cm.  Do not add any allowance at the waist or at the hem.

See below for how much fabric you need to check the block fit.

Place the new pattern pieces on the straight grain of the muslin fabric as shown in the diagram and cut out the fabric pieces ready to make up the skirt.

Fabric Layout

Layout for 90cm wide muslin/calico Layout for 150cm wide material

Place front pattern on fold of fabric

Place front pattern on fold of fabric

Order of Construction For those unfamiliar with sewing.

1. The order of work would be to first join the centre back seam leaving a 20cm space for the zip at the top of the centre back at waist level. 

2. Press the back seam open.

3. Insert the zip.

4. Next make the darts in both back and front skirts.

5. Press the darts toward centre front and centre back of the pieces over a rounded ham tailoring aid.

6. Place the two right sides of the skirt pieces together and pin then tack the side seams. Use a loose machine stitch about number 4 to machine the pieces to together. This will enable you to quickly unpick the seam if the skirt is too tight or too large for your figure.

7. Try on the skirt toile and adjust the darts or seams to fit by letting them out or taking them in as needed.

8. Check the waist sits correctly and that the skirt length is to your liking as a finished length.  If you need to add more length or remove length make a note of it now.

9. Transfer fitting alterations to the basic block and either stick the resultant paper pattern block onto firm card or make a card version of the exact pattern block.

Fabric Required to Make the Muslin Toile

To make the toile you will need approximately 1.60cm of 90cm wide cotton fabric or 80cm of 150cm wide fabric.  If you are on the large or on the taller side you may need to adjust this amount and simply by twice your finished length of fabric.

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For more information on Skirt Pattern Drafts go to:-

Picture and Text Stages of
Skirt Pattern Drafting with Pictures

Fabrics

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